Quantity electrical appliances in the homes of citizens is growing every day. If earlier people in the house had a refrigerator and a TV set from electrical devices, today you can count dozens of different elements of digital and household appliances. As a result, the demand for electricity is also growing. At the same time, many people live in old houses that were built 40 or even 50 years ago. But what is a voltage regulator for? It's simple. The wiring in these houses and the power lines to them are designed for low energy consumption by the residents. This means that voltage drops in the power grid cannot be ruled out. Even in large cities, similar problems are observed, while in villages and small settlements the situation is dire.
What is a voltage regulator for?
Household and digital appliances (in most cases) cannot boast of resistance to power surges. Any drop or sharp increase can cause damage to electrical appliances (refrigerators, computers, televisions). By the way, it is household appliances (not digital) that suffer from this problem the most. Large electrical heating devices such as boilers, which are extremely sensitive to voltage stability, fall into a special risk group.
You can avoid such situations by using a special device that can always provide a stable voltage to the home's electrical network. That's what a voltage regulator is for.
Who doesn't need this device?
Not all people need it, because in most cities in Russia, the voltage in the network is stable. It makes no sense to buy this device if 230 V is constantly maintained in the house without any hesitation in any direction. Why do you need a voltage regulator in this case? Even if you install it, then its work for 99% of the time will be useless. Perhaps someday he will save the TV, because in theory, drops in the network are possible.
Who needs it?
However, this thing is really necessary for those people who suffer from unstable electricity in the house. And although in theory it is possible to sue the electricity company and compensate for damage in the event of a breakdown of the refrigerator or other equipment in the house, this is difficult to do. At a minimum, you will have to record the fact of a power surge and prove that the refrigerator burned down precisely because of the poorly provided service.
Benefits of using a stabilizer
Are you still wondering what a voltage regulator is for? When using it:
- All electrical appliances in the house will be powered from the network for which they are designed. Consequently, their lifespan will increase and their energy consumption will decrease.
- All equipment in the house will be protected from power surges, and even if it happens, computers and household appliances will not fail.
Note that powerful devices that are installed at the entrance to the wiring into the house are quite expensive. Sometimes it makes sense to use a cheap and low-power stabilizer that can only power one computer, for example. This solution is often used in private homes and even offices. Also, many users are interested in whether a voltage stabilizer is needed for a gas boiler. If the voltage in the house is unstable, then this device is necessary for the boiler. The boiler automation operates from the mains, and a power surge can damage it. If this happens in winter, the heating system of the house supplied by the boiler will stop. Now you know whether you need a voltage regulator for the boiler, but which one is already an actual question.
Varieties of stabilizers
Output voltage stability is achieved different ways... There are dozens of options for schemes to ensure network stability, but not all are effective. On this moment the following stabilizers are sold in stores:
- Step devices based on mechanical or solid state relays - they are based on a standard transformer. Everything works simply: current flows to the primary winding, and the output voltage is removed from the secondary winding, the relay switches the voltage between them. Typically, the switching step is 10-15 V, which allows you to correct fluctuations from 5-7%. This is a very weak indicator, but such a scheme is cheap and common. Most of the stabilizers on the market work in this way.
- Electromechanical. A transformer is also used here, but instead of a relay, the movement of the brush along the winding is used as a switch of the turns of the secondary winding. These devices are reliable, but more expensive. Moreover, they have a serious drawback - a slow reaction speed. Sharp power surges in the network will simply not have time to be smoothed out.
- Ferroresonant - these devices are very expensive and large, so they are almost never used in everyday life. These are the most reliable and accurate units, and they are used only where sensitive and expensive equipment is working.
- Devices based on double conversion of current. Like ferroresonant stabilizers, these stabilizers are also expensive but effective. Here the alternating current is converted to direct current, after which the direct current is transformed back into alternating current. This allows you to smooth out the smallest fluctuations, as a result of which we get a stable voltage at the output.
What should you choose?
Speaking about which one is needed or other household appliances, we can only recommend choosing electromechanical stabilizers. Stepped ones will work as well, but they are only effective when the voltage is only slightly unstable. Therefore, it is best to stay with more expensive but effective electromechanical devices. Ferroresonant regulators or double-conversion devices are very expensive and often unavailable.
Conclusion
Now you know which voltage regulator is needed for a refrigerator or other household appliances. Finally, it is appropriate to warn you against low-quality Chinese stabilizers, which only create the appearance of work. It should be understood that this device must be extremely reliable and of high quality, because how effectively expensive digital and household appliances will work in the house, how long it will last, depends on its operation. A stabilizer is a prerequisite for dwellings in which there is a change in the voltage in the power grid at least once a month. You need to complain about this and seek from the company providing electricity to resolve the issue, and in case of damage to the equipment, you even need to sue it. But it is much easier and cheaper to buy a stabilizer.
Why are power surges dangerous?
A jump is a short-term increase in the input voltage to an unacceptable limit - from 240 V or more. Even a very short (less than a second) jump can be enough for the failure of the control units of the heating boiler, borehole pump, washing machine, any device that has "brains". The reason is simple: the vast majority of electronic components (capacitors, resistors, etc.) that make up control boards, controllers and other microcircuits are capable of withstanding voltages up to 250V. This is the upper limit usually followed by component failure.
It should be noted that stabilizers are not rational protection against impulse jumps. A surge occurs due to several reasons, but mainly lightning discharges. A high-quality stabilizer will not miss the impulse leap to consumers, but it will not be able to work further: a visit to service center... To protect against impulse overvoltages, a set of measures is used, the central place in which is occupied by a special device - an SPD. However, recently the Italian Ortea stabilizers have been equipped with SPDs.
A good stabilizer will in most cases not allow a lightning discharge to pass through, but after that it will need to be repaired.
- When the input voltage is too high or low, equalize and maintain at the normal level.
What is the danger of overvoltage and undervoltage?
The danger of increased voltage is obvious: duration is added to all the unpleasantness of the jump: if the jump, depending on its amplitude, can theoretically pass without consequences, then prolonged exposure to high voltage is guaranteed to lead to breakdowns of "smart" machines.
At low voltage, many devices do not work well: heaters take a prohibitively long time to warm up, "smart" equipment does not turn on at all, the microwave does not heat up, etc. Equipment with electric motors is at particular risk: air conditioners, refrigerators, pumps, automatic gate drives, etc. This is due to the fact that when the voltage decreases, the current in the motor windings proportionally increases. An increase in current leads to an increase in temperature, which in turn leads to damage, and then to a breakdown of the insulation. In this case, engine repair is impractical.
Not a single stabilizer is able to eliminate the problems caused by the emergency state of the wiring, constantly use it at the limit of technical capabilities and work in conditions of strong current frequency distortion.
Determining parameters of the voltage stabilizer
- Regulation speed. How quickly the regulator reacts to changes in the voltage in the network and how quickly it corrects it. Accordingly, the higher the speed, the less chances that the power surge will pass to consumers.
- Overload capacity. The ability of the stabilizer to operate steadily when exceeding its rated power. A useful property in the operation of electric motors.
- Nominal input voltage range- the working range of the stabilizer, within which it is supposed to be used. In this range, the device retains the declared technical characteristics: rated power and stabilization accuracy. Most voltage stabilizers, after being turned off due to a drop in the input voltage below the maximum range, turn on only when the network reaches the nominal range at the input.
- Maximum input voltage range- this is the range in which the stabilizer continues to work, but the main technical characteristics (rated power, stabilization accuracy) deviate from the passport values. Typically, the maximum input voltage range is bordering on the disconnection of the instrument.
- Stabilization accuracy. This is the error in the output voltage of the stabilizer. Our GOST 13109-97 considers the maximum permissible error in the amount of 10%, however, not all devices are capable of surviving such deviations. The higher the stabilization accuracy, the more secure the "smart" technique will be.
- Noise. Almost all stabilizers emit some kind of sounds: transformer hum, rustling of fans, clicks of relay switching, the sound of a servo drive. Depending on the design, stabilizers can be more or less noisy. There are no absolutely silent stabilizers: any stabilizer will make noise, approaching in operation the limiting values of its technical characteristics.
- Climatic performance. The operating range of the ambient temperature differs depending on the manufacturer. For example, Lider stabilizers are capable of operating at -40 ° C, Progress at -45 ° C, and Calm - only at positive temperatures.
Principle of operation and types of stabilizers
A classic voltage stabilizer is a transformer equipped with a control board, a mechanism for selecting the number of turns of the transformer coil windings, various measuring devices: at least a voltmeter and a transformer temperature sensor, indication means and a switching device. By choosing the ratio between the number of turns of the primary and secondary windings of the transformer, it is possible to increase or decrease the voltage at the ends of the secondary winding. All voltage stabilizers operate on this property, with the exception of inverter ones.
The inverter stabilizer does not include a transformer at all, its operation is based on double conversion of current: first from AC to DC, and then back. This is the most modern type of voltage stabilizer today.
In fact, there are more types of stabilizers, but we will list only those that have found widespread use in everyday life and industry.
As you can see, by and large there are three types of stabilizers: electronic, electromechanical and inverter. The fundamental difference between the first two is the way of switching between the windings on the transformer. Electromechanical stabilizers include a small electric motor that physically moves a brush or roller along the transformer coil, thereby using the required number of turns. Electronic stabilizers have no moving parts; switching between predetermined coil turns is carried out using power switches: relays, thyristors or triacs. The inverter stabilizer does not have a transformer at all: the main parts in it are IGBT transistors and capacitors.
Design features determine the advantages and disadvantages of a particular type of stabilizer in operation. Let's try to display them visually:
| Parameter | Electromechanical stabilizer | Electronic transformer stabilizer | |
| Regulation speed | Low. (mechanical movement is incomparably slower than electric current)
|
High. (electronic switching takes place in milliseconds)
|
High. (no switching at all)
|
| Overload capacity | High. All electromechanical stabilizers are capable of sustained overload. (up to 30 minutes depending on the degree of overload) |
Low. Even short-term (up to 10 seconds) overload is the exception rather than the rule. |
Very low. up to 5 sec maximum. |
| Noise filtering | No | No | there is |
Electromechanical stabilizers are less able to withstand surges, but more capable of overloading.
Electronic stabilizers, on the contrary, cope better with surges, but they hold the overload worse.
Inverter stabilizers perfectly cope with voltage surges, have stepless regulation and are able to eliminate high-frequency interference in the network. But they are completely incapable of overloading.
Electromechanical voltage regulator
Its other name is servo. The principle of operation is quite simple: at the command of the control board, a small electric motor sets in motion a holder, at the end of which a graphite brush is fixed. Regulation is carried out by smooth movement of the brush along the transformer windings.
In the photo you see a transformer and a brush assembly of the Energiya SNVT-1500 New Line stabilizer. Three years of operation left noticeable traces on it, but the device is in service as of May 2016. Darkening on the transformer in the area of the brush movement is clearly visible - these are traces of graphite abrasion. There is also a slight melting of the insulation or varnish on the coil turns. This is a "variant of the norm", but the problem may go deeper. If the melting is more significant and occurs in the area of the brush contact, the brush begins to cling to the protrusions. The contact area decreases, sparking appears, heating increases, the stabilizer fails. Responsible manufacturers do not have such troubles - the control board, based on the signal from the current sensor and the temperature sensor of the transformer, will turn off the stabilizer before serious reflow begins.
Electrodynamic voltage stabilizer
These stabilizers, as well as electromechanical ones, have a servo drive, but instead of a brush, a roller moves along the transformer windings. The advantages of the roller over the brush are obvious: the roller will never catch on unevenness on the spool and will not wear out even during very intensive work. The photo shows the Ortea Vega 2.5 stabilizer disassembled. Although the quality of the photo leaves much to be desired, it is obvious that there is nothing to complain about. The winding is tight - turn to turn, massive roller holder, reliable fastening of the transformer to the case, each wire is crimped with a tip. High-quality and thoughtful installation is evident. The stabilizer is reliable and durable.
Electronic relay voltage stabilizers
The principle of operation of relay stabilizers is based on electromechanical relays that switch between transformer taps. During operation, the relay emits a characteristic sound - a click. The photo shows how the orange wires from the transformer are connected through the terminal block to the black blocks on the board. These are the taps of the transformer connected to the relay. Each branch is the end of a certain number of turns of wire on the coil. The control board by measuring the input and output voltage determines which of the taps to use at the moment and activates it, closing the corresponding relay. The relays installed on domestically produced stabilizers (Cascade) have a service life of up to 9,000,000 (!) Operations. This is a lot. The photo shows the stabilizer Cascade CH-O-12 of 2005, which is working properly as of May 2016. Relay high-precision stabilizers are not found: the highest accuracy available on the market today is 2.5%. In general, we can say about domestic relay stabilizers that they do not have the most outstanding technical characteristics, but at the same time they are practically indestructible.
Electronic thyristor and triac voltage stabilizers
The algorithm of operation of thyristor and triac stabilizers is exactly the same as for relay ones - the control board sends a signal, the electronic key (thyristor or triac) is triggered - the required tap is involved. Silently, lightning fast. Speaking simple language a thyristor is an electronic switch. It has two states - open and closed: by giving a signal to it, you can control its state. A triac is a type of thyristor, the difference between them does not affect the defining technical characteristics of the stabilizer. Reliability, speed of operation, unpretentiousness to temperature conditions of these components determined the mass production of stabilizers based on them. Thyristor or triac stabilizers can have very wide technical characteristics. By purchasing any thyristor stabilizer of domestic production, you can count on 7-10 years of its operation.
Inverter voltage stabilizers
The principle of operation of an inverter stabilizer consists in double conversion of the current passing through it. There is no transformer in such stabilizers, its place is taken by a chain of devices: an input filter, a rectifier, capacitors, an inverter and a control system.
Passing through this circuit, the current is filtered from interference, converted to direct current, and then back to alternating current. This allows you to achieve the ideal current and voltage waveform at the output, and voltage surges are absorbed by the capacitors. It is an advanced type of voltage regulator: it is capable of operating over a very wide input voltage range with very high accuracy. However, there were some drawbacks: there is practically no overload capacity, and the IGBT transistor, which is the basis of a reliable inverter, is very expensive.
Which stabilizer to choose: imported or domestic?
Imported stabilizers are presented on the Russian market mainly by Chinese devices. They have a very attractive price, but this is where their advantages end. The dubious quality of electronic components, the minimum safety margin of parts, careless assembly and, as a result, a short service life, which is barely enough for the warranty period. As soon as unscrupulous sellers of these devices do not contrive to hide the country of origin. One of these tricks is the import of a consignment through the Baltic states - a mark in the documents about the country of import makes it possible to declare the Baltic origin of the stabilizers (the famous Latvian stabilizers). Another way to mislead the buyer is to have a domestic trademark and call the stabilizer assembled in China domestic, without specifying that it is only a domestic brand, and the assembly and components, including the transformer, are completely non-domestic.
But there are also really high-quality imported devices: Italian stabilizers Ortea or Oberon. However, in terms of the current euro exchange rate, they are greatly inferior in price to their analogue - the Saturn stabilizer, which is absolutely not inferior to them in quality. And according to some characteristics, for example, the overload capacity is even superior. Stabilizers from German manufacturers are practically not represented in our country. A reasonable person will not buy them for the money that is asked for them.
Therefore, it is safe to say that
In most cases, a high-quality stabilizer at a relatively affordable price will be domestic.
How to "by eye" determine the quality of the stabilizer and its service life?
The answer is simple: by weight. Russian transformer stabilizer for 10 kVA with medium technical characteristics weighs at least 30 kg. A stabilizer with good technical characteristics, such as the Progress 10000L, weighs 43 kg. Most of this weight is carried by the transformer, which means it is guaranteed to withstand the rated power and input voltage range. A powerful magnetic core made of special transformer steel and a winding reserve guarantee a long service life. Therefore, if you see a transformer stabilizer with a capacity of 10,000 VA and at the same time its weight is only 20 kg, you should think about its reliability and service life.
A high-quality transformer stabilizer cannot be light.
In the case of an inverter stabilizer, make sure that it is made on IGBT transistors: this is a guarantee of its reliability and compliance with the passport characteristics.
Stabilizer power selection
The surest way to select the power of the stabilizer is to measure with every second recording during the day.
Calculation of the power of the stabilizer for electrical consumers
Stabilizer power (VA) = the sum of the powers of all consumers (W) * simultaneity factor / load factor + 15% margin
Let's analyze this formula:
- The power consumption in the passports of electrical appliances is usually indicated in kilowatts... Summing up the power of all devices, we got the number kilowatt which they will consume while working all at the same time. In practice, however, all consumers never work at the same time. Therefore, the coefficient of simultaneous operation of electrical receivers for residential buildings was calculated. We take the previously obtained sum of the capacities of individual devices and multiply by the coefficient of simultaneous use from the table. We get the power in kilowatts, which will actually be consumed at once. Please note that if you are heating with electricity, the simultaneity coefficient cannot be lower than 0.8.
- The power of the stabilizer is measured in kilovolt-amperes, and we have kilowatts... For the translation, we use the load factor.
where 0.8 is the load factor. So we got the full power of our electrical appliances in kilovolt-amperes
- we add 15% of the stock so that the stabilizer does not work in tension and that, it would seem, is all. But no.
- It is imperative to check the starting currents of devices with electric motors: submersible pumps, air conditioners, electric lawn mowers, car washes, etc. And although inrush currents last only seconds, they should not exceed the overload capacity of the stabilizer!
Calculation of the power of the stabilizer for the input circuit breaker
Stabilizer power (VA) = 220 (Volts) * rated current of the input machine (Ampere)
The input circuit breaker is not only the last stage of protection against short circuit, but also a physical current limiter, which you have the right to consume under an agreement with an electrical sales organization. They are installed not just like that, but based on the power of the transformer in the settlement, the cross-section of the supply cables and the general condition of the electrical facilities of the settlement. Therefore, they are often sealed.
It follows from this that we cannot consume more current than the input circuit breaker allows - it will simply turn off.
In the photo, we see a very high-quality and pedantic installation: a two-pole automatic switch at the entrance is located in a waterproof shield on a pole, then a counter and a pair of automatic circuit breakers after the counter. Each of these devices has the rated current for which it is designed.
In this photo we see the symbols "C32" on the circuit breaker. They mean that this machine has a "C" characteristic and is designed for a rated current of 32 Amperes. The rated voltage in our networks is 220 Volts, therefore the rated power of this machine = 32 A * 220 V = 7040 VA.
It would seem that it makes no sense to put a stabilizer more powerful than 8 kVA here, because the machine passes only 7 kVA. The catch lies in the "C" characteristic.
The characteristic of the circuit breaker is the dependence of the tripping speed on the overload. This topic is very extensive, in short, let's just say that characteristic C implies instant disconnection when the rated current of the machine is exceeded by at least 8 - 10 times at 25 ° C. The graph shows that with a fourfold overload, the shutdown will occur from 4 to 8 seconds! This means that starting currents for this machine do not care at all. And if we overload the automatic machine of characteristic C by 1.5 times, it turns off after 40 minutes, and this at a temperature of 25 ° C. At low temperatures, shutdown will be even slower. That is, if it is frosty outside, and you overloaded your automatic machine of characteristic "C" by 25%, it most likely will not turn off at all. There are no stabilizers with a similar overload capacity.
The overload capacity of the stabilizer should more than cover the starting currents of electric motors!
What is a bypass and why is it needed?
A bypass is a switching device for switching the power supply bypassing the stabilizer.
Why is this feature needed?
- Work not inverter welding machine. It is impossible to work as a transformer welding machine through a stabilizer.
- Connecting loads in excess of the rated power of the stabilizer.
- Defective stabilizer.
Today manufacturers of stabilizers implement bypasses in the following forms:
- Manual external bypass... Typically this is a two-position cam switch in a separate housing with terminal block. These bypasses are produced by the Lider and Progress stabilizer manufacturers. Advantage: for installation / dismantling of the stabilizer, you do not need to turn off the power supply and then connect the input and output wires. It is enough to disconnect the three wires from the terminal block of the stabilizer: when the bypass is on, they will be de-energized. External bypasses can be used with stabilizers from any manufacturer. Disadvantage: additional, albeit small, expenses.
- Manual built-in bypass... It can be performed on automatic switches (stabilizers Systems and Energy) or on a magnetic contactor (stabilizers Progress, Cascade and Saturn). Advantages: aesthetically pleasing (the wires from the stabilizer to the bypass do not dangle), cheaper (no separate housing is needed, the terminal block and additional wires are excluded). Disadvantage: When removing the stabilizer, you will need to connect the input and output wires.
- Automatic built-in bypass... This is a software and hardware complex that, according to a given algorithm, switches the power supply bypassing the stabilizer. To date, some Lider voltage stabilizers are equipped with automatic bypasses. Automatic bypass Lider will operate in the event of a malfunction of the stabilizer, when it is overloaded, overheated and when the input voltage drops below the permissible threshold. When the stabilizer is turned off at the upper limit of the input voltage, the bypass will not be activated - the load will simply be de-energized. Disadvantages: the automatic bypass is not analogous to the manual one: it will not work at will to start up the current bypassing the stabilizer. If the stabilizer is not in front of your eyes, you may not know for a very long time that it is in emergency condition and is operating in the bypass.
Selecting the range of the input voltage of the stabilizer
As a rule, the stabilizer has two voltage ranges - nominal and maximum.
When choosing a stabilizer, you must rely on its nominal input voltage range
Each specific regulator is designed for continuous continuous operation within the nominal input voltage range. All the main characteristics of the device (power, error, noise level, etc.) are indicated in the passport based on its operation in the nominal input voltage range. This implies:
The wider the rated input voltage range of the stabilizer, the better
However, the input voltage range of a regulator is directly related to its price. The wider, the more expensive. Therefore, by purchasing a multimeter, you can try to save money on the stabilizer. Take a series of voltage measurements on different days of the week, including weekends, and at different times of the day, including at night. Even after taking a few measurements, leave yourself a margin for the range, since the voltage can change with the change of seasons, especially in winter.
How important is stabilization accuracy?
For most household appliances, a stabilization accuracy of 3-5% is sufficient.
The exception is lighting systems made on incandescent lamps, electronics for gas heating boilers, hi-fi and hi-end technology. For these devices, it is better to choose stabilizers with an output voltage error of 1.5% or less.
TVs, refrigerators, pumps, air conditioners, washing machines In general, all household appliances do not need high-precision stabilizers: 2.5-3% of the error is optimal, 5% is acceptable.
Expanding horizons:
1. A very interesting article about circuit breakers2. We connect the stabilizer and difavtomat
3. People suffer with
Like any narrow-profile complex device, a voltage regulator acts as a source a large number myths and misconceptions. In fact, it will be quite difficult for a layman to choose such a device, but everyone who wants to purchase a stabilizer for their home should understand the principle of its operation and the meaning of the main parameters.
Hearing the name "voltage stabilizer", people who are not versed in electrical engineering, decide that this device is designed to cope with any problems in the power grid, that is, voltage surges, short circuits, and so on. In fact, this mysterious device only supports network parameters within the framework of GOST. That is why it makes little sense to choose a voltage stabilizer for an apartment, since there are almost no significant deviations from the norm in city power grids. Few people know that the outlet can have not only 220 volts, but from 198 to 244, and this is the norm. Wiring and equipment can burn out only after 250 volts.
But for a country house or summer cottage, such a useful device is almost a necessity, if you do not want to change the wiring and equipment after each thunderstorm or short circuit at the substation. And if we take into account that short-circuits are the cause of fires, it becomes clear that the described device cannot be done without.
An average voltage regulator cannot:
- correct the input voltage waveform and straighten the sine wave;
- filter noise at high and low frequencies, this is a function of a specialized filter, but not a stabilizer;
- completely protect against short circuits.
So why choose a voltage regulator at all? - you ask. It's simple, this device can adjust the mains voltage by raising it when it is too low and lowering it when it is too high. In addition, if the voltage is too sharp, the gadget turns off the power to electrical appliances. This is enough so that the sensitive electronics do not burn out, and you do not have to shell out a tidy sum for repairs or replacements.
How to choose a voltage stabilizer for your home: types of devices
Before starting to disassemble individual characteristics and parameters of stabilizers in general, you need to make a reservation that the device can be network and trunk. Network type- this is a kind of adapter between an electrical appliance and an outlet that connects directly to the latter. Trunk, as the name implies, connects to the electrical mains and protects absolutely all electrical appliances in the house. It makes sense to buy the first option if you are worried about some specific equipment, for example, a home PC, the second - if the voltage jumps often, and everything, even light bulbs, needs protection.
There are three main types of stabilizers:
- Relay, they are also stepped - the most popular and sparing option for your budget. Under the case of this option is an automatic relay that analyzes the incoming and outgoing voltage and reduces or increases it to the desired level. In addition to the affordable price, the advantages of this option include its compact size, the ability to work in frost of -20 degrees, and in forty-degree heat, and quiet operation. The only drawback directly follows from the principle of operation - the voltage is stabilized by switching between different relays, and during this the lights may flash. If you are not embarrassed by the atmosphere of a horror movie that sometimes arises from this feature, then you can safely take this particular type.
- Electronic or thyristor - the semiconductors of this device can change their conductivity about a hundred times per second, if this tells you something. If we go into human language, then such a stabilizer has a greater voltage setting compared to the previous version, while there are no delays and power is saved, so you can forget about flashing lights. Cons - high price and size. This option is good for a private house in which there are a lot of expensive and sensitive electrical equipment.
- Electromechanical, they are also servo-driven - they can be mains and mains, and the range of incoming voltages is from 130 to 260 volts, that is, this option will insure the equipment even in the event of very serious surges. In addition, such a stabilizer can withstand overloads, cuts off part of the interference and boasts good power. A fly in the ointment - the device does not work in frost and the more noise during operation, the more power. The reaction is slower than electronic.
Summing up, we can say that electronic stabilizers are the most powerful and reliable, but also the most expensive, electromechanical ones are cheaper, but cannot boast of such high performance. The golden mean is relay models, therefore they are most often chosen to protect electrical appliances.
How to choose a voltage regulator: basic characteristics
Of course, the defining characteristic to look at first when choosing a gadget is its power. It is very simple to calculate it - you need to add up the power of all electrical appliances connected to the network. But here it is worth considering two nuances. Firstly, if we are not talking about a table lamp or a radio, but about a pumping station or a machine tool, that is, devices with high starting currents, the power reserve should be at least three times greater than the sum of the powers. Secondly, even if only light bulbs are connected to the network, it is worth taking a device with a power reserve of at least 20%. What if you want to plug your laptop into a power outlet, and a power surge occurs? Therefore, there should always be a margin.
The second important parameter is phase. The phase of the device is selected according to the number of phases in the network, that is, single-phase - for a network with one phase of 220 volts, and three-phase - for a network of 380 volts. The three-phase version is significantly more expensive, therefore, if devices for one phase are connected to a network with three phases, then you can cheat and put three single-phase stabilizers - one for each of the phases. It will be more profitable.
Other important parameters include the following:
- active load - the load exerted on the network by devices that give light or heat. An iron, a heater, an electric hob and even a light bulb have an active load. It is measured in kilowatts and is added up when choosing a stabilizer;
- reactive load - load from inductive and capacitive devices, that is, from electric motors and other similar devices. If you need to calculate the total power of such an electrical appliance, then for this you need to add up the active and reactive;
- voltage range - the larger it is, the more reliable, but it does not always make sense to overpay by buying a model with the widest range. This is especially true when it comes to a more or less stable power grid. To understand what range you need, you just need to measure the voltage in the network for several days in a row a couple of times a day. By the way, it should also be borne in mind that on some models the input voltage range and limit range are indicated. The second digits are threshold values, after overcoming which the stabilizer simply turns off the power to electrical appliances;
- accuracy - the maximum difference between the outgoing voltage and the gold 220 volts. The acceptable level of accuracy is plus or minus 7% of the nominal, but the lights start blinking if the accuracy is higher than 3%. The higher the accuracy, the less noticeable the voltage surges, if explained in a simple way;
- type of installation - stabilizers distinguish between wall and floor. The former are mounted on the wall, the latter are placed on the floor. When choosing the type of installation of the device, it should be borne in mind that humid, dusty or dirty places are not the best choice for a device that works with electricity. And electromechanical models still do not tolerate frost, so you should not install them outside or just in an unheated room.
An interesting but optional feature that can be considered when choosing a voltage stabilizer for a summer cottage or home is the presence of a display. It displays the input and output voltage, load and other data that will be completely useless to you if you do not understand electrical engineering.
By the way, if you bought a voltage stabilizer, then you should not turn on paranoia and connect absolutely all electrical appliances to it. Constant pressure for stable operation, you need a refrigerator, TV, computer, phone and light bulbs, but the heater works normally even with power surges. Moreover, if a powerful device such as an electric welding machine is connected to the device, then it can lead to the operation of the protection and turn off the current in principle. If you need to protect, for example, only a refrigerator with a TV, then the optimal solution would be to buy two network stabilizers instead of one trunk.
How to choose the right voltage regulator: useful tips
When choosing a device, there are a number of small and non-obvious nuances that should be taken into account and which can make your life much easier:
- power of 10-15 kW is almost always enough for a home, unless, of course, you are a “gadget-maniac” who has five TVs and three refrigerators in his house or the owner of a house with powerful heating devices, electric pumps and pumps;
- the peak load on the power grid is observed in the morning and in the evening, therefore, it is necessary to take measurements for power at this time;
- the network in the house can be low-voltage or amplitude, the voltage in the first is stabilized using a conventional household stabilizer, in the second it is not. For an amplitude network, a special wide-range device is needed;
- only 2% of electrical engineering in the world needs precise stabilization, the rest works normally in the range from 198 to 244 volts;
- some cheap low-quality models can lose up to half the power during operation, so it is not worth saving;
- European and Chinese electrical power is measured in volt-amperes (kVA), not kilowatts (kW). 10 kW is 0.7 times more than 10 kVA;
- for a heating boiler, only an electronic version of the stabilizer is needed.
If you take into account all these points, then choosing a model will be much easier. And if you do not understand electrical engineering at all, then you can and should use the help of a professional electrician, or at least ask for advice on thematic forums.
The best manufacturers and models
To understand which stabilizers are trustworthy and which are not, you need to at least superficially navigate firms and models. So the world leader in the manufacture of such devices is an Italian company Ortea... All of its products tolerate frost perfectly, boast great power, accuracy and other advantages. The most popular model from the company - Ortea Vega 1.
Bastion Is a Russian company that promises a lifetime warranty for some of its models. The development, manufacture of all parts and assembly of devices are completely carried out on the territory of the Russian Federation, hence the relatively low price. If you are interested in this brand, then pay attention to the Teplocom ST-555 model.
Resanta- Chinese-made stabilizers, they are three-phase and single-phase, of different power and accuracy, in general, they satisfy a variety of needs.
If we consider specific models, then for a number of characteristics the following can be distinguished:
- QUATTRO ELEMENTI STABILIA 1000 is the best low-power model for household appliances, at the same time, it is inexpensive. Minus - low accuracy;
- QUATTRO ELEMENTI STABILIA 12000 - the best high-power model, whose stabilization accuracy is also, alas, lame;
- PROGRESS 8000TR is the 2017 leader in terms of accuracy. It makes noise during operation, but with a stabilization error of only 3%, this is not critical;
- RUCELF SDWII-12000-L is the best electromechanical model and, in principle, one of the best stabilizers. Protects not only from power surges, but also from short circuits, overheating and interference. It is not cheap, but the reliability is high.
Compare prices this equipment is convenient
Voltage stabilizers are not acquired from a good life, and since you have done this, then you most likely already have or have had voltage problems.
The standard voltage level according to the norms should be 230 volts (not 220, as many still believe).
But depending on the place of residence (length and congestion of power lines) and possible accidents in power grids (breakage of the neutral wire, overload), the voltage can be either stably underestimated or increased, or simply "jump" in arbitrary values.
When a small device is purchased to protect one specific device - a computer, refrigerator, TV, boiler, then there are no problems with the connection. 
The stabilizer has a plug and socket. Even a schoolboy can figure it out.
But if you want to install a powerful device to protect the electrical appliances of the whole house at the same time, then you have to tinker with the connection diagram. 
What you need to connect
In addition to the stabilizer itself, you will need a number of additional materials:
The cross-section of the wire should be exactly the same as on your lead-in cable, which comes to the switch or the main input machine. Since the entire load of the house will go through it.
This switch, unlike simple ones, has three states:
1 enabled consumer # 1 2 disabled 3 enabled consumer # 2You can also use a conventional modular machine, but with this scheme, if you need to disconnect from the stabilizer, you will have to completely de-energize the whole house and throw the wires every time.
There is, of course, bypass or transit mode, but to switch to it, you need to follow a strict sequence. This will be discussed in more detail below. 
With this switch, you completely cut off the unit in one motion, and the house remains directly with the light.
You must clearly understand that the voltage regulator is installed strictly before the electricity meter, and not after it.
Not a single power supply organization will allow you to connect differently, no matter how you prove that thereby, in addition to the electrical equipment in the house, you want to protect the meter itself. 
The stabilizer has its own idle speed and also consumes electricity, even when operating without load (up to 30W / h and above). And this energy must be taken into account and calculated. 
The second important point is that it is highly desirable that in the circuit, before the connection point of the stabilization device, there is either an RCD or a diff.automatic device. 
In the method described below, just such an option will be considered. Indeed, very often these devices are hung on the wall in rooms, hallways, freely accessible for touching. 
And the breakdown of the transformer windings on the case is not such a rare thing.
Connection instructions in the dashboard
First of all, you mount a three-position switch in the electrical panel, immediately after the introductory machine.
Suddenly, you have it out of order or you need to carry out some kind of revision work. You won’t flip the wires and cut off the power to the whole apartment every time.
Choose a place to install the voltage stabilizer. You can't put it anywhere either. There are certain rules to be followed.
Lay two VVGnG-Ls cables from the shield to this place. 
It is advisable to mark each of them and make appropriate inscriptions at both ends:
- stabilizer input
Remove the insulation from the cores and first connect the cable in the electrical panel. Connect the phase from the wire that goes to the input of the stabilizer to the output terminals of the input machine. 
Next, deal with the stabilizer-output cable. The phase conductor (let it be a white wire), connect to contact No. 2 on the three-position switch. 
Zero and ground from both cables are planted on the corresponding busbars. 
Now you need to feed the phase directly from the input automaton to the three-position one. You clean the assembly wire of the PUGV, end the conductors with NSHVI tips and start it from the phase output of the input circuit breaker to terminal No. 4 of the switch. 
All that remains to be done in the dashboard is to power up all the machines from terminal No. 1 of the three-position controller. 
Do this operation again with flexible mounting wires.
Thus, according to the scheme, you applied the phase from the input automaton to the 3-position, and then through its contacts distributed the load, by connecting through the stabilizer (contact No. 2-No. 1) and directly without it (contact No. 4-No. 1).
In your particular case, these contact numbers may not coincide with the numbers indicated here! Be sure to clarify everything in the instructions or in the passport for the machine.
Stabilizer connection
Now we turn to the direct connection of the stabilizer itself. In order to get close to its contacts, you may need to remove the outer cover. 
Pass two cables (input and output) through the holes and clamp them under the terminals according to the following scheme:
- tighten the phase conductor of the stabilizer input cable to the INPUT (Lin) terminal
- neutral core (blue) to terminal N (Nin)
- earth conductor to screw terminal marked "earth"
By the way, there may not be a separate “ground” terminal. Then tighten this core under the screw on the body of the device itself. 
There are models with terminal blocks for only 3 wires. In them only the phase comes back. 
Zero for power supply of electrical appliances is taken from the common panel.
Now when you have applied voltage from the shield to the stabilizer, you need to return this voltage, but already stabilized, back to the general shield.
To do this, connect the cable - the output from the stabilizer.
- its phase conductor to the OUTPUT terminal
- zero to N (Nout)
- grounding conductor, in the same place as the grounding conductor from the input cable
Visually check the entire circuit again and close the lid. 
Checking the circuit
The first start-up must be done without load. That is, all machines except the introductory one and what goes to the stabilizer must be turned off. 
Run it at idle speed and control the work. Input and output parameters, isn't there extraneous noise or a squeak.
It also does not hurt to check the correctness and accuracy of the technical data that are displayed on the electronic board. 
If you have a 380V three-phase network at home, then for such a connection it is recommended to use 3 single-phase voltage stabilizers, each connected in a separate phase. 
More details about the advantages of three-phase and single-phase devices and when to choose which one can be found in the article ””.
Connection errors
1 Incorrect location and installation location
You can have everything perfectly connected and follow the circuit, but the stabilizer will constantly warm up and turn off, or errors will pop up on its display.
Of course, this point can hardly be called a mistake. Moreover, more than 90% of consumers do just that.
However, this switch can really save your device from failure.
The fact is that the switching of the voltage regulator from the normal mode to the "transit" mode must be performed with a certain sequence.
First, you turn off the vending machines on the stub panel. 
Then move the switch itself to the TRANSIT or BYPASS position. 
And only then turn on the machines again. 
Many people forget about this and switch under load. Which ultimately leads to breakdowns.
With a 3-position automatic machine, this is impossible. You automatically switch the voltage, without any manipulation on the stabilizer. And all this with one key!
You don't need to memorize any sequence. So this procedure can be safely trusted to any family member.
3 Use for connecting a cable with a smaller cross-section than the lead-in
You can choose a smaller cross-section only when you are supplying power to individual loads.
If you have the whole house on the stabilizer, then please observe the input parameters in accordance with the entire house load.
4 Lack of lugs on stranded wires
For some reason, many people forget that often the entire load of your house passes through the stabilizer. Exactly the same as on the input machine.
At the same time, in the electrical panel all the wires are crimped, even on the light switches with minimum currents, but on the terminal blocks of the stabilizer or its automatic machines, you can constantly find a bare wire just tightened with a screw. 
Therefore, do not skimp and purchase the appropriate handpieces in advance with the device.
5 Knocks out the general machine gun in the dashboard
Sometimes after connecting the stabilizer, the introductory machine begins to knock out. At the same time, without a stabilizer, everything is fine and nothing turns off.
Many people immediately sin on the wrong wiring diagram or a defect in the apparatus. They take him for warranty repairs, etc.
And the reason may be quite different. If you have too low a voltage of 150-160V, then when it rises to the standard 220-230V, the current in the network will increase significantly. 
Hence all the problems. Pay attention to this before carrying it back to the store.
There are many types of voltage stabilizers on the market now. These are electronic and electromechanical, hybrid and thyristor. But to say that some are better and others worse will not be correct. Each of them has its own scope. It's like saying that a Kamaz truck is worse than an urban business-class Mercedes. The first has its own scope, while the second has its own and cannot be replaced with one another. Kamaz is not suitable for delivering a businessman to a meeting, and you cannot bring 10 tons of cargo in a Mercedes. But on the contrary - Kamaz can easily transport 10 tons of sand, and Mercedes will comfortably deliver a businessman to a meeting.
So it is with voltage stabilizers. For example, relay stabilizers can work quietly even at sub-zero temperatures (up to -30 ° C), but is this ability needed if they stand inside a heated house? No.
But for summer cottages, the ability of relay switches to work at temperatures below zero is very useful.
Therefore, for a private house in stabilizers, qualities such as smooth regulation(so that the lights don't blink) and how much is the exact output voltage.
Voltage stabilizer for home how to choose
Continuous voltage regulation is main feature electromechanical voltage stabilizers. Inside they have a copper winding, along which a brush travels with the help of a servo. When the voltage in the mains changes, the servo drive moves the brush along the winding, thereby smoothly equalizing the voltage. Besides, this way adjustment allows you to maintain a very high voltage accuracy at the output of the stabilizer (220V ± 3%), which is also important when used with home video and audio equipment.
But the classic electromechanical stabilizers always had one very important disadvantage- this is a rather narrow input voltage range (up to 140V). This means that when the voltage in the power grid falls below 140 volts, the electromechanical stabilizer simply turns off and de-energizes all electrical appliances in the house.
Electromechanical stabilizer design
For elimination this disadvantage so-called hybrid voltage stabilizers capable of equalizing voltage in the range of 105V ... 280V. They got their name due to their design features. Inside the hybrids, in fact, there are 2 modules - electromechanical and relay. The main mode of operation of hybrids is electromechanical (active when the input voltage changes in the range from 140V to 280V), with smooth and high-precision alignment of all fluctuations in the power grid. But when the voltage drops below 140 volts, the protective shutdown no longer works, but instead a relay unit is connected, which is able to pull out the drawdowns up to 105V.
Advantages of hybrid stabilizers:
- smooth adjustment (bulbs will not blink);
- very accurate - hold 220V (± 3%);
- equalize the voltage with 105V.
The disadvantages include:
- outdoor version- Cannot be hung on the wall. Although using a special rack, you can install them one above the other;
- can only work at temperatures above 0 ° С.
Comparison of the characteristics of electromechanical stabilizers:
In addition to hybrid devices for the home, they also put thyristor Surge Protectors. The role of the power switch in them is played by a semiconductor element, a thyristor. Thanks to this, it is possible to further expand the range of input voltages and pull out drawdowns up to 60V!
Due to the absence of moving parts, thyristor stabilizers create absolutely no noise during operation. This makes it possible to use them even inside city apartments. In addition, thyristor devices are considered the most durable among voltage stabilizers. Because of this, manufacturers often give them an extended warranty.
The advantages of thyristor stabilizers:
- cope even with abnormal voltage drops up to 60V;
- absolutely silent (noise level - 0dB);
- adjustment is carried out smoothly;
- high-precision - at the output we get 220V ± 5% (and 220 ± 3% for frost-resistant modifications)
- high response speed (20ms);
- made in a hinged version (do not take up much space and are conveniently mounted on the wall);
- have an extended warranty for 3 years.
disadvantages
- the technology for the production of thyristor stabilizers is quite expensive, so the price tag of the devices does not allow them to be installed in every home.
Comparison of characteristics of thyristor models:
First rule:
For the house, you need to install a voltage stabilizer with smooth adjustment (so that the bulbs do not blink). These requirements are met: electromechanical (hybrid) or thyristor stabilizers.
Step # 2 - Single Phase or Three Phase?
So, we have decided on the type of stabilizer - we need an electromechanical / hybrid or thyristor device.
Now you need to understand whether to put single-phase (at 220V) or three-phase (at 380V)?
There are two options:
- if one phase is connected to the house, then we select a single-phase stabilizer;
- it would seem that for a three-phase network there should be the same logical conclusion - for three phases, take a three-phase unit. But there is one caveat.
All three-phase stabilizers are designed in such a way that when one of the phases disappears, the protection is triggered in the stabilizer and it turns off, de-energizing the entire house. Therefore, only if there are three-phase consumers in the house, we install a three-phase stabilizer.
If the consumers are only 220V, then it is better to put 3 single-phase voltage stabilizers (one for each phase). Most often, such a solution will even be cheaper in money.
What if you don't know how many phases are connected to the house?
The most common answer to this question is: "If you had three phases, you would know about it." Indeed, most of the old-built private houses have one phase and all household consumers are designed for 220V (TV, refrigerator, computer, video and audio equipment).
Three phases are often used for modern country cottages. in addition to household electrical appliances, it is planned to install three-phase consumers at 380V.
There are 2 or 3 wires connected to the house - a single-phase network, 4 or more - three-phase.
Second rule:
If one phase is connected to the house, we stop at single-phase stabilizers.
For a three-phase network:
- if there are 380V consumers - we put one three-phase stabilizer;
- if the consumers are only 220V, we put 3 single-phase stabilizers (one for each phase).
Step # 3 - Should it work in sub-zero temperatures?
So, now we know that, depending on the consumers, you need to install a single-phase or three-phase device.
The next step is simple - will the stabilizer be in the heated room or not. Most often, the device is located in a technical room inside the house and there is no need for frost-resistant devices.
If suddenly it is necessary to work at temperatures below zero, then we remember this parameter in the stabilizer as important.
Third rule:
Most often, stabilizers are installed inside the house and there are no requirements for frost resistance. But if it stands in an unheated room, then we choose among stabilizers that can work at sub-zero temperatures.
Step # 4 - How much power do you need a stabilizer?
At the previous stages, we learned that a house needs a device with smooth adjustment, we decided on the number of phases of the required device (single-phase or three-phase) and decided for ourselves whether it will stand in a heated room or a frost-resistant version is needed.
Now you need to understand how much power the device should have.
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This issue needs to be considered carefully, since taking a stabilizer of low power, as a result, we will get frequent shutdowns of the stabilizer due to overload.
The basic rule that is usually followed when choosing a voltage stabilizer for a home is as follows:
For each private house or country cottage, an introductory automatic device is installed, which does not allow the electrical wiring of the house to be loaded more than it is designed. This is not due to the "greed" of electricians, as if they do not want to allow the owner of the house to turn on appliances with more power than allowed. The reason is trivial - to prevent a fire from occurring. In order to prevent overheating of the wires and the occurrence of a fire due to this, an introductory machine is installed. If a person tries to simultaneously load the electrical wiring with devices of greater power than allowed, the input circuit breaker will perform a protective shutdown and prevent a fire in the house.
Most often, such introductory machines are placed on the house:
Introductory machine for 40 A (ampere)
In order to find out what power a voltage stabilizer is needed for our house, the same formula is always used:
- Option number 1 - a single-phase 220V network is connected to the house
In this case, we multiply the value of the input machine (we have 40 amperes) by 220 volts:
40 * 220 = 8 800
It turns out that our house needs a stabilizer with a capacity of no less than 8800 VA (volt-ampere) or 8.8 kVA (kilovolt-ampere).Knowing the typical power range of stabilizers:
5, 8, 10, 15, 20, 30 kVAWe understand that a stabilizer for 8 kVA will no longer cope with our load, but at 10 kVA it will be it.
- Option number 2 - a three-phase 380V network is connected to the house
In the case of a three-phase network, the solution is as follows:- if there are 380V consumers at home- we put one three-phase stabilizer.
Its power is calculated as follows:
An introductory machine for private houses with a three-phase connection, most often for 20 amperes.
We multiply 20 amperes by 200V and multiply the resulting figure by 3 more:
20 * 220 * 3 = 13 200
It turns out that a three-phase stabilizer with a capacity of at least 13200 VA (volt-ampere) or 13.2 kVA is needed for the house. (kilovolt-ampere).
Again, taking into account the power range of three-phase stabilizers (9, 15, 20, 30 kVA), we understand that we need a 15 kVA stabilizer.
In total, you need a 15 kVA three-phase unit. - If 3 phases are connected to the house, and all electrical appliances are ordinary, designed for 220V and there are no plans to install three-phase consumers, then it will be more efficient to install three single-phase stabilizers (one for each phase). This is done for the reason that if there is a voltage failure in one of the phases, the three-phase stabilizer will de-energize the entire house. When installing three single-phase stabilizers, this problem does not arise and electrical appliances on the remaining two phases continue to work.
The power is calculated as for a conventional single-phase stabilizer (described above) with the difference that not one but three pieces are needed:
40 * 220 = 8 800
In total, you need 3 stabilizers of 10 kVA each.
- if there are 380V consumers at home- we put one three-phase stabilizer.
Fourth rule:
Depending on the number of connected phases:
- for a single-phase network (220V), a single-phase stabilizer of 10 kVA is most often installed;
- for a three-phase network, either one three-phase stabilizer of 15 kVA or three single-phase 10 kVA (one for each phase) are installed.
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Step # 5 - How much does the voltage drop?
In the previous 4 steps, we found out that a stabilizer with smooth and precise regulation is required for the house (electromechanical / hybrid or thyristor devices are suitable for this). We learned that with a single-phase network, a single-phase stabilizer is needed, and with a three-phase network, one three-phase or three single-phase (in which cases and which one is indicated in Step # 2). At Step 3, we decided whether we need a frost-resistant device or whether it will stand inside the house, in a heated room. And at Step 4, we calculated the required power of the device.
And now we come to that small, but very important point, which 80% of people forget about when choosing a stabilizer.
In theory, everything is simple - I looked at the figure on the input machine, multiplied it by 220V, and a stabilizer is needed for such a power. But for some reason they forget that when the voltage drops (when the outlet is not 220V, but already 170V, 140V and below), the power that any stabilizer can produce also drops. And instead of the declared 10 kW (kilowatts), it already produces 8 or 7 kW. Thus, if home network loaded in full (electrical appliances with a total power of 10 kW are turned on and work at the same time), the stabilizer will not be able to provide them with this power and, in order to avoid overheating and failure, protection will work, which will turn off both the stabilizer and all electrical appliances in the house.
Dependence of the output power of the stabilizer on the voltage drop in the mains.
As you can see from the graph above, when the voltage drops to 170V, the stabilizer will be able to deliver a maximum of 85% of its power. If we take, for example, a 10 kW device, we get:
10 * 85/100 = 8.5 kW total
With a voltage of 140V, we have 65% of the power:
10 * 65/100 = 6.5 kW total
If our drawdowns reach 110V, then at the output you can count on only 40% of the power, and this is:
10 * 40/100 = 4 kW total
It is for this reason that all electricians unanimously advise taking a voltage stabilizer with a power reserve of at least 30%.
The situation with increased voltage is not so common, but the power reserve must be taken in this case:
Dependence of the output power of the stabilizer at increased voltage.
Already at 255V, the stabilizer begins to lose power, and at 275V it is capable of delivering only 80% of the declared values. A protective shutdown occurs at 280V.
Fifth rule:
With undervoltage or overvoltage, the power of any stabilizers drops. Therefore, you should always take a stabilizer "with a margin" in power (at least 30%).
Conclusions:
So, today we learned that for the house:
- only accurate stabilizers with a small error at the output and smooth adjustment are suitable. This is necessary so that at the time of voltage equalization the bulbs do not blink and the electronics in the house work normally. Electromechanical, hybrid or thyristor devices are suitable for these requirements;
- decided whether you need a single-phase or three-phase device;
- found out for themselves whether it will stand in a heated room or a frost-resistant device is required;
- learned that for houses with one phase supplied (220V), they most often take a 10 kVA (kilovolt-ampere) stabilizer, and for a three-phase network (380V), 15 kW (kilowatt) devices are chosen. And they learned how to calculate the power of the required stabilizer individually for their home;
- remember that the stabilizer must be taken with a power reserve (at least 30%).
I hope we were able to help as much as possible with the selection of a stabilizer for the home. If you have learned something new for yourself and find this information useful, click on the buttons below social networks and keep this article to yourself so as not to lose.