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A computer mouse is a key mechanism for comfortable work with a computer. It can be used to control PC menu functions. Since the mouse is used actively, it also breaks often and unexpectedly. Its device does not have a complex design. The mouse can be completely disassembled and repaired with your own hands, having a minimum set of tools and knowledge. To find out how to disassemble a mouse without bolts without consequences, you should study the features of its fastenings.
Features of fastenings
The mouse consists of two parts: a body, a wheel and internal parts. The top housing is divided into two main buttons. The upper and lower parts are bolted together. Usually manufacturers hide them under bearings or stickers. Most mice have four mounting screws located under the feet on the bottom of the case. These feet allow you to glide easily across the rug. They peel off and stick back.
Often you come across devices with one bolt on one side of the case. The second side is fixed with latches. If the screws are not visible at all, then there are latches around the entire perimeter. To disassemble the mouse, you need to press lightly on them.
Inside there is a printed circuit board, most often not secured with screws. It is mounted with holes on plastic rods protruding from the body. On some models, the board is secured with one or more bolts.
Device repair
A computer mouse can fail for various reasons. The most common:
- clogging;
- oxidation of metal contacts;
- damage to the wheel axle;
- wire damage.
Almost all problems can be fixed at home. To do this you need to follow some steps:
- Prepare the necessary tools.
- Disconnect the mouse from the computer.
- Disassemble the case by pressing on the latches or unscrewing the screws.
- Open the case halves using a screwdriver with a rubber or plastic bat that will not leave scratches on the plastic of the device.
- You need to disconnect parts of the mouse carefully, without sudden movements, so as not to break the internal wires.
- There is a chip inside. It needs to be disconnected and removed from the groove, as well as other buttons if we are talking about a gaming mouse.
- After repair, assembly must be carried out in the reverse order.
Repair may consist of the following manipulations:
- The broken wire should be soldered.
- A broken wheel axle can be made from a regular paper clip.
- Clogged areas should be cleaned with a special wipe or clean soft cloth.
After all the necessary activities have been completed, you can begin assembly. First, install the wheel in place, screw the board and return the additional buttons to their place. Then you need to carefully connect the halves of the housing and screw in the bolts, or press the parts together at the locations of the latches until a characteristic click is heard. The mouse is assembled - you can check its operation.
Preparing tools
To disassemble and repair the mouse, you will need a minimum set of tools:
- Screwdriver Set;
- scissors;
- soldering iron
You should use medical gloves to avoid leaving greasy fingerprints on the board or internal contacts during the repair process. To remove blockages you need a special napkin. In extreme cases, a piece of soft, clean cloth will do. Do not use water with detergents or solvents for cleaning. You need to take regular alcohol. You can moisten a cotton pad with it and wipe the board, wheel, and body from the inside. The optical sensor is cleaned with a toothpick and cotton wool, also soaked in alcohol.
Wireless mouse repair
Wireless devices often fail due to dead batteries. If the mouse stops responding to movement or responds poorly to manipulation, then most likely the batteries should be replaced. Most wireless models have an operating indicator light, so the health of the batteries can be checked by the indicator glowing red.
Discharged batteries are easily removed. On the “sole” of the mouse you need to open the compartment cover and remove the batteries. It also wouldn’t hurt to check the contacts in the device and on the battery terminals. Over time they oxidize. The resulting deposits are removed with a rag soaked in alcohol. It is not recommended to use sandpaper - you can remove the protective galvanic film.
Computer mouse - small, but very important device for PC users. It experiences heavy mechanical load during active use. Over time, this leads to breakdowns, most of which can be fixed at home. A few screwdrivers, a soft cloth, ammonia and gloves, as well as a little patience and a serious approach to repairs will save money and time.
A computer mouse is a pointing device that allows the user to control the cursor on the screen. This device is quite reliable and, with careful use and proper care, can last for many years. Very often, because of a mere trifle, the owner himself chooses what to do next: throw away the old manipulator and buy a new one, or try to find out the cause of the breakdown and repair his assistant. This is where the question arises: how to disassemble the mouse to get to its internal mechanism.
There are several most common types of computer mouse failures that can be repaired. This could be chafing of the wire when coming out of the case, if the mouse is wired, sticking of a button, usually the left one, because it is used more often, or poor operation of the wheel. These are the breakdowns that can be corrected and extend the life of your assistant.
Although the device of the manipulator seems simple in appearance, problems often arise with how to disassemble the mouse. Depending on the model, it is secured with one or two screws. In some devices, the screw is visible, but most manufacturers hide the fasteners under stickers or bearings for a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, in order to detect the screw, you need to carefully examine the sticker for the presence of deflections in the shape of a circle; if there are any, then you need to peel it off; if there are none, then you need to look under the thrust bearings. The latter should be removed carefully and then placed back in place, otherwise the mouse will not glide well on the mat.
Having unscrewed all the screws, it is necessary to separate the manipulator body into halves and remove top part. How to further disassemble the mouse, in most cases, no questions arise, since it is usually not fixed by anything, but in some models it can be screwed in with small screws, so you need to be careful. If the board cannot be removed, then all existing fasteners should be unscrewed.
The mouse can also be attached to latches; to identify them, you need to go along the joint of the halves with a screwdriver and open them. When disassembling the manipulator, it is important to remember exactly how the parts are located, so that later they can be put back together correctly. Do not touch the optical prism or other optical elements. If touching cannot be avoided, then dirty marks should be wiped off with a napkin containing a special liquid for cleaning optical parts.
Many users have a question about how to disassemble a mouse if it is wireless. To get started you need either a computer. Wireless mice for laptops are disassembled in almost the same way as wired ones. There is a silver button in the center of the manipulator; you need to press it, remove the cover and remove the AA batteries.
Use a jewelry screwdriver to unscrew all fasteners. It is also necessary to get rid of the rubberized base located on the bottom covering. This can be done using a nail file. The mouse should be divided into two parts. On the bottom there is a board, a scroll wheel and an antenna. To remove the board, you need to unscrew four bolts. After this, the mouse is completely ready for inspection and repair.
If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you will be able to repair the breakdown yourself and the device will serve you for many more years.
Mouse sensor is acting up
Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately move the cursor to a certain point. It constantly trembles and moves on its own. This situation clearly indicates that the optical group of the mouse is clogged.
Clogging is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the diode light is reflected from the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you don’t even need to disassemble the mouse. Just turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck debris.
If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or has completely failed. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor using a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:
Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it to remove any fine dust that may stick after it gets wet. After this, carefully, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the sensor hole. After making a couple of turns and without stopping rotating, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.
If, after all attempts at cleaning, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can unsolder the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse. However, this already requires a certain skill, so not everyone will be able to pull it off...
Mouse wheel scrolls
It happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling begins to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly common failure and it was this that prompted me to write this article.
First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel rotates in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can become deformed, resulting in the axle slipping in the problem area.
If you have just such a problem, then it can be solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with adhesive tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then the breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). It may have become loose from prolonged use and should be tightened a little:
To do this, take small pliers and press them one by one on the four metal brackets that secure the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time press harder. Try connecting the mouse and checking whether the negative effect when scrolling decreases after each click.
Alas, in my case it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and in a truly Russian way :) I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:
What’s most interesting is that this manipulation helped! All I have to do is cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse :)
Mouse buttons don't work
The last, and most annoying, breakdown is the non-working button. Whether it's left, right or the one under the wheel doesn't matter - they're all usually the same. The important thing is that a non-working button cannot be repaired in any way. You can only replace its microswitch by removing the non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or one borrowed from another mouse.
The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular clamp, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. There is no need to solder the fastener. It only serves as a “fool proof” to prevent you from inserting the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.
Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn’t work every time you press it. Such a symptom may indicate that the edge of the button pusher, which presses the microswitch, has worn away due to frequent use.
We disassemble the mouse and carefully examine the problematic button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then that may be the problem. It is enough to fill the dented area with a drop of epoxy resin or melted plastic.
The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it. This issue can be solved by re-soldering the microswitch or... programmatically! In any case, before you take up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:
According to the speed skid standard double click should be in the center, and the sticky mouse buttons option should be disabled. Try setting these parameters and check if the problem is resolved. If not, another radical one programmatic method Double-click "cure" - remove the mouse driver. How to properly remove the driver is written.
conclusions
Mice are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their design, in most cases anyone can fix a mouse!
To do this, you don’t need to know how to solder or understand electronics. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair.
I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the problem. Good luck with your renovation!
P.S. Permission granted to freely copy and quote. this article provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.
A computer mouse is a pointing or pointing input device that helps PC users easily control the cursor on the screen. No matter how simple this device may seem at first glance, disassembling it is not so easy. Let's look at several options for disassembling a mouse.
You will need
- Screwdriver
Instructions
Instructions
- disassemble the manipulator
Today I will tell you how you can do minor repairs computer mouse . Many of you may ask: why? After all, today it’s easier to buy a new mouse than to tinker with a faulty one and try to repair something there. And in some ways you will be right. But there are objects or things that you get very used to or become attached to, and their replacement is not always equivalent.
A computer mouse is exactly the kind of object that you quietly get used to, and the replacement of an old rodent with a new one is immediately felt.
First of all, this is the feeling of the mouse in the palm of your hand, as well as the comfort and strength of pressing the keys. And if you use an expensive mouse that you can’t easily buy in a store. In a word, you can always throw out a mouse, but you need to try to give it another life.
To disassemble the mouse, you need to unscrew the screw located in the lower rear part of the case. In my design you can see that the screw is located under the silicone “leg”. And there are designs of mice where such screws are covered with paper stickers, and in order to get to the screw the sticker is usually pierced.
Using the tip of a screwdriver or scissors, pry up the edge of the leg and peel it off, pulling it to the side. If you have a sticker, then we pierce it.
Now we lift the upper part of the case and slightly pull it towards ourselves so that it comes out of the grooves located in the front part of the base of the case.
In the following figure, arrows indicate some of the elements that are most susceptible to wear and tear, causing the mouse to begin to work poorly. These are mainly microswitches and part of the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body.
2. Malfunctions.
The first common malfunction is when you move the mouse, but the cursor stands still, moves jerkily, or you have to move the mouse several times for the cursor to move. This malfunction occurs when the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body frays due to repeated bending of the wire.
It can be removed simply and easily.
Using scissors or a knife, cut off the damaged section of the USB cable, indicated by the dotted line.
To make it convenient to work, remove the board from the case. To do this, you need to bend the two latches that secure the board at the back.
We remove the top insulation of the cable and strip the ends of the wires. Who has a soldering iron, the ends of the wires.
Now we connect all the wires of both ends of the USB cable to each other. We take two wires of the corresponding color, for example, red, and twist them, and if you have a soldering iron, then solder them.
I had heat shrink, and to insulate the connection, I first put it on the ends of the cores. If there is no heat shrink, then you can use electrical tape, tape or any other flexible insulating material.
The next step is to isolate the twists or adhesions of the cores, and then evenly lay them in one line to create a large twist. As shown in the bottom of the picture.
Now we cover the twists with insulating material. I used heat shrink again to make it look nice. Although this is not important, since this beauty will still hide inside. But still.
If you do a little soldering, then there is another option where you don’t need to do any twisting or soldering. Here the damaged section of the USB cable is simply cut off, stripped, tinned and soldered under the connector on the side of the tracks. When soldering, the sequence of colors of the wires that go into the upper part of the connector is repeated.
Second common problem- this is when you have to click the left mouse button several times to perform some action. And it also happens: you click once, and the click occurs twice. The culprit for all this is the microswitch, which is pressed on by the left key.
In this case, we will already need a soldering iron. Here we do this: we unsolder the microswitch of the left mouse button and the “wheel”, and swap them in places. The majority of people use the wheel only to scroll pages, and very few people use it as an additional button. Therefore, we install this microswitch instead of the worn left one.
The microswitch is easy to solder, although it has three pins.
Using the soldering iron tip, we simultaneously touch the middle and any of the outer terminals, while trying to lift this edge with our finger. There is no need to press hard.
You should get something like this:
Now we intercept and solder the opposite side of the microswitch, where we also lift it with a finger and heat the two terminals with a tip.
If it didn’t work the first time, that is, the microswitch remained on the board, then we repeat the desoldering procedure again: first we solder one side, and then the other. When both microswitches are soldered off, we swap them and solder them back.
Very often situations arise when part of the solder remains in the hole into which the leg of the radio component is inserted.
If necessary, this can be eliminated this way: take a regular needle or a needle from a disposable syringe and insert it into the hole on the side of the radio components, and on the side of the tracks this hole is heated with a soldering iron. When the solder warms up, the needle will enter the hole and push the solder out.
Now all that remains is to assemble the repaired rodent in reverse order and enjoy its work. When you put the upper case back in place, first insert it into the grooves and lightly push forward so that it fits all the way.
I think now it won’t be difficult for you to do minor computer mouse repairs.
Good luck!
Instructions
Prepare the mouse for disassembly. To do this, unplug it and place it on the table, turning it upside down. Locate the mounting screw on the bottom surface of the mouse. The screws are sometimes not immediately visible, as they are often hidden under stickers. In this case, first remove all stickers from the base of the mouse.
Carefully unscrew the mounting screws. The screw heads on mice are usually cross-shaped, so you will need the same screwdriver. The screws are located in recesses; it will be easier to remove them with a magnetic screwdriver. It is important that after unscrewing, place the screws in a prepared container, otherwise they will be lost.
Open the case. To do this, hold the mouse by both bottom and surface and pull the cover towards you. Calculate the force so as not to break off the lid latch approx. It is best to pull the lid up and slightly to the left. Now you can blow out the insides of the mouse from accumulated dust.
Remove the scroll wheel from the base of the mouse. There are different designs for mounting scrollers. More often than not, just pull up and the wheel will come out with its mount or latch. There is often a lot of hair wrapped around the scroller axis. Remove these with a suitable tool.
Remove the mouse chip. The board is secured with latches or screwed. Gently bend the latches with your fingers. Unscrew the screws and put them with the rest of the parts. Lightly pull the board up to separate it from the mouse body. That's it, the mouse is finished.
The mouse is assembled in the reverse order. The board, scroller and cover are put in place. If there are latches, make sure that they all click into place.
Sources:
- Oklick 404 L Optical Mouse pros, cons, characteristics
Sometimes a computer mouse suddenly stops working. This is due to chafing of the cable near the case itself. In such a situation, you have two options: buy a new mouse or try to repair the old one.
Instructions
Disconnect the mouse from the personal computer. Use a small Phillips screwdriver to disassemble your computer mouse. Locate the mounting screws on its bottom surface. Unscrew them using a screwdriver.
Then try to remove the top cover of the case. Pry it with a thin sharp object from the side opposite the cable entrance to the mouse. If the case does not budge, it means there are hidden screws. As a rule, they are located under the rubber feet of the mouse. Remove the rubber bands from the holes. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the remaining screws.
Look under the stickers. There may also be mounting screws hidden there. Please note that the sticker can only be applied if the deadline has expired. warranty repair. Otherwise, repair your computer mouse at service center it won't be possible anymore.
Keep the rubber feet as your mouse will be very uncomfortable to use without them. So, to disassemble the mouse, remove the top part of the case. Remove the scroller. Usually it is equipped with a shaft fixed on one side in a detachable joint. The other end of the shaft should be attached to the encoder hole.
Lift the shaft over the joint and remove it from the hole. Remove all screws holding the board in place. Then release the latches. After this, remove the optical cover and lens from the board. Leave the multi-pin connector in the same place. Take wire cutters and cut the wire until it enters the housing.
Cut the damaged piece of cable to fix the mouse. Then clean the contacts. Take a soldering iron. According to the colors of the pins, solder them to the multi-pin connector inside the mouse body. After that, connect it to your computer. See if the LED lights up and if there is a reaction to the rotation of the scroller.
Then you can return the lens to its original place and check if there is a reaction to the movements. If the mouse works properly, reassemble it. If not, check for proper soldering on the multi-pin connector. You may have left a jumper between the contacts.
If you have ever organized a meal on a laptop or the process of cooking near a laptop (there are some), most likely, after these events, your laptop refused to work. Maybe it works, but something from food got under the key. In order to remove a particle of your former food from under a key, you need to disassemble the keyboard or remove only the key.
You will need
- Laptop keyboard, key removal tool (any thin and non-sharp one).
Instructions
To begin cleaning the keyboard buttons, you must remove the keyboard. Most keyboards come apart from the keys. In order not to make a mistake later, just take a photo of your keyboard or. Any key consists of:
- keypad;
- lift keys;
- spring element (not present on all keyboards).
To quickly complete the process of removing the keys, any thin and non-sharp object can be used: a watch screwdriver, a thin awl, a dental hook. The platform is connected to via latches. Connections can be either movable or non-movable. Using fixed connections, the key is disconnected from the keyboard body. Typically this is located at the bottom of the keyboard button. It is necessary to insert the hook between the fixed connections, ensuring that it passes between the elevator and the platform.
So you took one off button. If you need to do the same with multiple keys, be mindful of their placement. Use your photo or photocopy of the keyboard when reassembling the keyboard buttons.
Video on the topic
Personal computers It has long been impossible to imagine without a keyboard and mouse, which are the main intermediaries in the “communication” between the user and technology. Unfortunately, mice break and start acting up quite often. The computer mouse can be disassembled and cleaned.
Instructions
Disconnect from the PC, but only when turned off system unit. The mouse body can be cleaned with a regular damp cloth and a small amount of liquid soap. But don't even think about washing it mouse under running water. True, after disassembling the (namely optical) mouse, the case itself can be thoroughly rinsed. It’s just that mechanical mice also have a microcircuit that cannot always be removed from the case.
Take a small Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the small one that is located in the recess at the bottom of the manipulator body. Typically the body consists of two parts. There may also be a small latch on the side of the screw. Gently separate the body without using much force.
If it is optical, you need to carefully wipe the glowing red “eye” in its lower part using a match with cotton wool or an earplug. You can also use a can of compressed air. Carefully remove the large chip from the optical mouse body and free its plastic parts from dust, dirt and hair (). Remove the rubber covered part of the ball mouse and wash it with soap or wipe with alcohol. Pay special attention to the mouse wheel and its mountings. Dirt often accumulates there too.
To mechanically remove dirt, it is better not to use a knife or razor, but to take a small plastic scraper. Use it to thoroughly scrape off dirt wherever possible.
Having dealt with dust and adhered dirt, remove grease from the rotating parts of the manipulator. This can be done with a soft, lint-free cloth soaked in alcohol. Also wipe the insides of the mouse with alcohol to prevent dust from accumulating for longer.
Now you can collect mouse. Put the chip (wheel) back and close the case. Be careful not to pinch the wire. Tighten the screw and consider the mouse cleaned.
If, while working at the computer, your hand suddenly and sharply begins to hurt mouse, the pain intensifies and does not go away for a long time, then you can be “congratulated.” This is a manifestation of tunnel syndrome, another disease of civilization. Severe pain and the inability to continue sitting at the computer may hide swelling of the tendons and damage to the nerve of the wrist. A chronic form of joint disease may even develop. How correctly you hold your computer mouse, your health depends.
Instructions
The furniture on which you sit - a chair or an armchair - should have armrests that provide necessary support hands and wrists.
Mouse pads are not an anachronism at all, especially if there is a special anatomical bulge for the wrist. Using this mouse is very convenient and correct. Therefore, be sure to purchase the right one.
You need to move the mouse with just your fingers, and not with your whole hand, especially with the help of your shoulder. Hold mouse hold the edges with your thumb and little finger, place your index finger on the left button, middle finger on the wheel, and ring finger on the right button.
Video on the topic
note
If carpal tunnel syndrome is no longer just making itself felt, but is really bothering you, immediately go to the doctor and do not delay treatment.
Helpful advice
Learn to use the mouse with both hands. Changing positions will help avoid pain. In addition, it is useful for developing coordination and posture. Change the functions of the left and right buttons The mouse is easy to configure in the control panel.
Sometimes it is necessary not only to assemble cabinet furniture, but also to disassemble it in order to transport it to another place. You can disassemble the table if you have the necessary tools and carefully study its design.
Even the best, high-quality mice tend to get clogged. There are a lot of small crevices in them that even a needle can barely fit through, but dust and hair are placed there comfortably. And occasionally, coffee spills inappropriately on this small device. What to do when the mouse is clogged and the buttons and wheel do not respond as expected? There is only one way out, or rather two: you can easily throw out the mouse, but if this was not part of your plans, you will have to disassemble it mouse .
You will need
- Small Phillips screwdriver, container for storing screws
Instructions
1. Prepare the mouse for disassembly. To do this, disconnect it from the computer and place it on the table, upside down. Locate the mounting screw on the bottom surface of the mouse. The screws are sometimes not immediately visible, because they are often hidden under stickers. In this case, first remove all stickers from the base of the mouse.
2. Carefully unscrew the mounting screws. The screw heads on mice are traditionally cross-shaped, and therefore the same type of screwdriver is required. The screws are located in recesses; it will be easier to remove them with a magnetic screwdriver. It is important that after unscrewing, put the screws in a prepared container, otherwise they will get lost.
3. Open the case. To do this, hold the mouse with both hands on the bottom and top surfaces and pull the cover towards you. Calculate the force so as not to break off the lid latch near the cord. The best thing to do is to pull the lid up and a little to the left. Now you can blow out and clean the insides of the mouse from accumulated debris and dust.
4. Remove the scroll wheel from the base of the mouse. There are various designs for mounting scrollers. Most often, just pull up and the wheel will come out together with its mount or latch. There is often a lot of hair wrapped around the scroller axis. Remove this hair with a suitable tool.
5. Remove the board or mouse chip. The board is secured with latches or screwed. Gently bend the latches with your fingers. Unscrew the screws and put them with the rest of the parts. Lightly pull the board up to separate it from the mouse body. That's it, the mouse parsing is complete.
Occasionally, a computer mouse suddenly loses its functionality. This is due to chafing of the cable near the case itself. In such a situation, you have two options: buy a new mouse or try to repair the old one.
Instructions
1. Disconnect the mouse from the PC. Take a small Phillips screwdriver to disassemble the computer mouse. Find the mounting screws on its bottom surface. Unscrew them using a screwdriver.
2. After this, try to remove the top cover of the case. Pry it with a thin sharp object from the side opposite the cable entrance to the mouse. If the case does not budge, it means there are hidden screws. As usual, they are located under the rubber feet of the mouse. Remove the rubber bands from the holes. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the remaining screws.
3. Look under the stickers. There may also be mounting screws hidden there. Please note that damaging the sticker is only allowed if the warranty repair period has expired. Otherwise, it will no longer be possible to repair your computer mouse at a service center.
4. You will save rubber feet from the fact that without them it will be very inconvenient for you to use the mouse. It turns out that in order to disassemble the mouse, remove the upper part of the case. Remove the scroller. Usually it is equipped with a shaft, fixed on one side in a detachable hinge. The other end of the shaft should be attached to the encoder hole.
5. Lift the shaft over the joint and remove it from the hole. Remove all screws holding the board in place. After this, remove the latches. Later, remove the optical cover and lens from the board. Leave the multi-pin connector in its original location. Take wire cutters and cut the wire until it enters the housing.
6. Cut the damaged piece of cable to repair the mouse. After this, clean the contacts. Take a soldering iron. According to the colors of the pins, solder them to the multi-pin connector inside the mouse body. Later, connect it to your computer. See if the LED lights up and if there is a reaction to the rotation of the scroller.
7. After this, you can return the lens to its former place and check if there is a reaction to movement. If the mouse works properly, reassemble it. If not, check the positive solder connections on the multi-pin connector. It is possible that you left a jumper between the contacts.
If you have ever organized a meal at a laptop or the process of cooking near a laptop (there are some), most likely, after these events, your laptop refused to work. Maybe it works, but something from food got under the key. In order to pull out a particle of your previous food from under the key, you need to disassemble the keyboard or remove only the key.
You will need
- Laptop keyboard, tool for removing keys (anything thin and not sharp).
Instructions
1. In order to begin cleaning the keyboard buttons, you need to remove the keyboard. Many laptop keyboards come apart from the keys. In order to avoid mistakes during assembly, it’s best to take a photo of your keyboard or a photocopy. Any key on a laptop keyboard consists of several parts: - key pad; - key lift; - spring element (not present in all keyboards).
2. To quickly complete the process of removing the keys, any thin and non-sharp object can be used: a watch screwdriver, a thin awl, a dental hook. The keyboard button pad is connected to the elevator via latches. Connections can be either movable or non-movable. With support for static connections, the key is detached from the keyboard body. As usual, this connection is located at the bottom of the keyboard button. You need to insert the hook between the static connections, ensuring that it goes between the elevator and the landing.
3. So you took one off button. If you need to do the same with multiple keys, be mindful of their placement. Use your photo or a photocopy of the keyboard when reassembling the keyboard buttons.
4. The keys are placed in their former place by completely snapping into place. Put button to its intended place and press it.
Video on the topic
Personal computers have long been impossible to imagine without a keyboard and mouse, which are the main intermediaries in the “communication” between the user and technology. Unfortunately, mice break and start acting up quite often. The computer mouse can be disassembled and cleaned.
Instructions
1. Dirt and dust penetrate into the ball mice better than anyone, getting under the roller. The cursor begins to twitch when moving, or may not move at all in any direction. Therefore, it is very important to use a rug and make sure that dust does not accumulate on it.
2. Disconnect the manipulator from the PC, but only when the system unit is disconnected. The mouse body can be cleaned with a traditional damp cloth and a small amount of liquid soap. But don't even think about washing it mouse under running water. True, after disassembling the optical (precisely optical) mouse, the case itself can be thoroughly rinsed. Primitively, mechanical mice also have a microcircuit that cannot always be removed from the case.
3. Take a small Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the small screw that is located in the recess at the bottom of the manipulator body. Typically the body consists of 2 parts. There may also be a small latch on the side of the screw. Carefully divide the body without using any special force.
4. If the mouse is optical, you need to carefully wipe the glowing scarlet “eye” in its lower part using a match with cotton wool or an ear stick. You can also use a can of compressed air. Carefully remove the huge chip from the optical mouse body and free its plastic parts from dust, dirt and hair (fur). Remove the rubber-covered ball from a ball mouse and wash it with soap or wipe with alcohol. Pay special attention to the mouse wheel and its mountings. Dirt often accumulates there too.
5. To remove dirt mechanically, it is better not to use a knife or razor, but to take a small plastic scraper. Carefully scrape off dirt from its support where possible.
6. Having dealt with dust and adhering dirt, remove grease from the rotating parts of the manipulator. This can be done with a soft, lint-free cloth soaked in alcohol. Also wipe all the insides of the mouse with alcohol to prevent dust from accumulating for longer.
7. It is now allowed to collect mouse. Put the chip (wheel) back and close the case. Be careful not to pinch the wire. Tighten the screw and consider the mouse cleaned.
If, while working at the computer, your hand suddenly and sharply begins to hurt mouse, the pain intensifies and does not go away for a long time, then we can “congratulate” you. This is a manifestation of tunnel syndrome, following the disease of civilization. Severe pain and the impossibility of continuing to sit at the computer may conceal swelling of the tendons and damage to the nerve of the wrist. A chronic form of joint disease may even develop. How faithfully you hold the computer mouse, your health depends.
Instructions
1. Check how you usually hold mouse PC. In order to hold mouse positively, the hand should be straightened and located as far as possible from the edge of the table.
2. Stop using the retractable keyboard and mouse tray. Better yet, pick them up and place them on the table in front of the monitor. The angle of the arm in this case will be closer to 90 degrees, which will be more convenient for you.
3. The furniture on which you sit - a chair or an armchair - must have armrests that will provide the necessary support for your arms and wrists.
4. Mouse pads are not a relic at all, only if there is a special anatomical convexity for the wrist. Using such a mouse is very comfortable and reliable. Therefore, be sure to purchase such a positive rug.
5. Do exercises for your arms for the whole hour or even two hours. It doesn’t matter which one: from the well-known “We wrote, we wrote, our fingers are tired” to snapping fingers – as long as it lasts longer.
6. If you don’t feel comfortable using a mouse, use a special hard medical bandage that also supports your wrist. It can be purchased at an orthopedic salon or at a pharmacy.
7. You need to move the mouse with just your fingers, and not with each hand, especially with the support of your shoulder. Hold mouse hold the edges with your thumb and little finger, place your index finger on the left button, your middle finger on the wheel, and your ring finger on the right button.
Video on the topic
Note!
If carpal tunnel syndrome is no longer making itself felt, but is really worrying, go to the doctor immediately and do not delay treatment.
Helpful advice
Learn to use the mouse with both hands. Changing the position will help avoid pain. In addition, it is suitable for developing coordination and posture. You can easily change the functions of the left and right mouse buttons in the settings on the control panel.
Sometimes it is necessary not only to assemble cabinet furniture, but also to disassemble it in order to transport it to another place. You can disassemble the table if you have the necessary tools and carefully study its design.
You will need
- – flat screwdriver;
- - a huge Phillips screwdriver.
Instructions
1. When starting work, find all the attachment points for the tabletop and legs. The normal fixing elements are located under the tabletop. It is attached to the legs, which can be connected to each other by transverse strips.
2. If the table is combined with another table or with a “corner”, first unscrew the screws (or screws) that hold the ties. Ties have the form of brackets or rectangular plates.
3. Remove the ties that connect the tables. This way you will separate the table from consoles or other furniture.
4. Loosen the tabletop fastening elements. When it is no longer secured, proceed to remove it from the table legs.
6. Place all fasteners (accessories) in a bag and tie them to the boards of the disassembled table, so that if you move, the polished furniture will not be scratched.
7. Take a flathead screwdriver or a large Phillips head screwdriver to remove the tabletop. With the help of these tools, turn the drums counterclockwise (four extravagant ties). Maintain a rotation angle of about 180 degrees (approximately half a cycle, no more). The eccentrics are located on the inside of the legs closer to the tabletop itself.
8. Typically, such screeds have an arrow pointer. Therefore, when turning the drum counterclockwise, make sure that this arrow points sternly upward. This location indicates that the ties are loose. Using this method, unlock all four ties that are located on the table legs.
9. One leg can have two attachment points, which can be hidden under a decorative overlay to match the color of the table. Therefore, before turning the tie, remove the small plastic circle (decorative element).
10. In order to separate the table legs from the connecting transverse board, point the arrows on the eccentrics directly towards the table legs, bring them into a horizontal position. Turn the ties counterclockwise.
Helpful advice
On a piece of paper, draw up a diagram for disassembling the table to make it easier to assemble it in a new place.
Wireless devices are becoming more and more popular among users, and most definitely wireless mice. Most often you can see them among laptop owners, although in some cases they can also be seen among users desktop computers. After unpacking, many customers of wireless mice wonder: where to put the batteries?
Instructions
1. First of all, unpack the contents of the box and take it out mouse. Please note whether the kit includes brochures or instructions. It turns out, take it mouse in your hands and look attentively. Usually the manufacturer makes a battery compartment at the bottom of the mouse, but in rare cases it is located primitively in the middle. If the compartment is located at the bottom, then pry it with something sharp or, if there is a “tongue,” press it. Insert the batteries and close the cap.
2. To gain access to the compartment, you need to click on the upper part of the mouse body, and then slowly pull it towards you. Don't worry: the mouse will not break, only the moving part will be removed. Insert the batteries and close the lid, the main thing is not to break the teeth that are inserted into the grooves on the case. The main locations of battery compartments in mice are discussed. If your wireless mouse does not have a compartment in the 2 indicated places, then read the instructions that come with it. The instructions can also always be downloaded on the manufacturer’s official website.
3. When using a wireless mouse, it is occasionally necessary to completely disassemble its case - for example, to clean it from dust or to troubleshoot problems. Start with the screws. Look observantly at the bottom of the mouse: remove the stickers and legs, from what is hidden under them greatest number screws Unscrew them and carefully remove the upper part of the housing. On some “sophisticated” mice, the upper and lower parts of the case are connected by a special cable, and if it is torn off, you will have to take it for repairs. There is no point in unscrewing all the insides, since every dust will already be clearly visible. The screws can be pre-numbered so as not to get confused when assembling the mouse. The legs can be glued back with double-sided tape or cleaned in advance and glued with silicone glue.
Helpful advice
The mouse is assembled in the reverse order. The board, scroller and cover are put in place. If there are latches, make sure that they all click into place.
Today I will tell you how you can do minor computer mouse repair. Many of you may ask: why? After all, today it’s easier to buy a new mouse than to tinker with a faulty one and try to repair something there. And in some ways you will be right. But there are objects or things that you get very used to or become attached to, and their replacement is not always equivalent.
A computer mouse is exactly the kind of object that you quietly get used to, and the replacement of an old rodent with a new one is immediately felt.
First of all, this is the feeling of the mouse in the palm of your hand, as well as the comfort and strength of pressing the keys. And if you use an expensive mouse that you can’t easily buy in a store. In a word, you can always throw out a mouse, but you need to try to give it another life.
To disassemble the mouse, you need to unscrew the screw located in the lower rear part of the case. In my design you can see that the screw is located under the silicone “leg”. And there are designs of mice where such screws are covered with paper stickers, and in order to get to the screw the sticker is usually pierced.
Using the tip of a screwdriver or scissors, pry up the edge of the leg and peel it off, pulling it to the side. If you have a sticker, then we pierce it.
Now we lift the upper part of the case and slightly pull it towards ourselves so that it comes out of the grooves located in the front part of the base of the case.
In the following figure, arrows indicate some of the elements that are most susceptible to wear and tear, causing the mouse to begin to work poorly. These are mainly microswitches and part of the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body.
2. Malfunctions.
The first common malfunction is when you move the mouse, but the cursor stands still, moves jerkily, or you have to move the mouse several times for the cursor to move. This malfunction occurs when the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body frays due to repeated bending of the wire.
It can be removed simply and easily.
Using scissors or a knife, cut off the damaged section of the USB cable, indicated by the dotted line.
To make it convenient to work, remove the board from the case. To do this, you need to bend the two latches that secure the board at the back.
We remove the top insulation of the cable and strip the ends of the wires. Who has a soldering iron, the ends of the wires.
Now we connect all the wires of both ends of the USB cable to each other. We take two wires of the corresponding color, for example, red, and twist them, and if you have a soldering iron, then solder them.
I had heat shrink, and to insulate the connection, I first put it on the ends of the cores. If there is no heat shrink, then you can use electrical tape, tape or any other flexible insulating material.
The next step is to isolate the twists or adhesions of the cores, and then evenly lay them in one line to create a large twist. As shown in the bottom of the picture.
Now we cover the twists with insulating material. I used heat shrink again to make it look nice. Although this is not important, since this beauty will still hide inside. But still.
If you do a little soldering, then there is another option where you don’t need to do any twisting or soldering. Here the damaged section of the USB cable is simply cut off, stripped, tinned and soldered under the connector on the side of the tracks. When soldering, the sequence of colors of the wires that go into the upper part of the connector is repeated.
Second common problem- this is when you have to click the left mouse button several times to perform some action. And it also happens: you click once, and the click occurs twice. The culprit for all this is the microswitch, which is pressed on by the left key.
In this case, we will already need a soldering iron. Here we do this: we unsolder the microswitch of the left mouse button and the “wheel”, and swap them in places. The majority of people use the wheel only to scroll pages, and very few people use it as an additional button. Therefore, we install this microswitch instead of the worn left one.
The microswitch is easy to solder, although it has three pins.
Using the soldering iron tip, we simultaneously touch the middle and any of the outer terminals, while trying to lift this edge with our finger. There is no need to press hard.
You should get something like this:
Now we intercept and solder the opposite side of the microswitch, where we also lift it with a finger and heat the two terminals with a tip.
If it didn’t work the first time, that is, the microswitch remained on the board, then we repeat the desoldering procedure again: first we solder one side, and then the other. When both microswitches are soldered off, we swap them and solder them back.
Very often situations arise when part of the solder remains in the hole into which the leg of the radio component is inserted.
If necessary, this can be eliminated this way: take a regular needle or a needle from a disposable syringe and insert it into the hole on the side of the radio components, and on the side of the tracks this hole is heated with a soldering iron. When the solder warms up, the needle will enter the hole and push the solder out.
Now all that remains is to assemble the repaired rodent in reverse order and enjoy its work. When you put the upper case back in place, first insert it into the grooves and lightly push forward so that it fits all the way.
I think now it won’t be difficult for you to do minor computer mouse repairs.
Good luck!
Disassembling the Microsoft IntelliMouse Explorer mouse
Note: the author is not responsible for partial or complete inoperability of the mouse and/or computer and/or other devices, directly or indirectly resulting from the actions described in this article. If you decide to follow the above algorithm, be careful.
Disassembling a mouse that costs about $50? Theoretically, such mice should not break at all... however, unfortunately, the reality is much worse than the theory (see, for example, this one in the conference), and by the time they break, the warranty is usually already over. There is only one way out - reserve a couple of hours of time and carefully go through your pet one by one.
In my case, the reason that led to the need to disassemble the mouse was more than trivial - the patient had not yet broken down, but I managed to take some steps in this direction: I spilled beer on the mouse, and some of this drink managed to get inside (and in this case Often a complete cleaning of the mouse is advisable). Many users also often complained about the wire, which often bends (and breaks) at the base, as a result of which the mouse starts working “every time.”
So, let's begin. I think most readers will do this without my reminder, but nevertheless - Before starting work, do not forget to disconnect the mouse from the computer!
Now you need to find the mounting screws. Like many other mice, the IE has them located under glide stickers on the bottom surface of the device. The stickers need to be carefully pryed off with a sharp knife and, having been separated from the mouse (without breaking them in the middle - for this it is better to keep the plane of the knife parallel to the plane of the sticker), fold them somewhere to the side with the adhesive side up:
Having removed the stickers, we find four self-tapping screws that should be carefully unscrewed.
Now comes the fun part - removing the cover. In addition to the screws, the cover of this mouse is secured from the inside with a small latch (shown in the photo):
In order to remove the cover, you should separate its right side from the base (it is made of translucent red plastic), and then gently pull the cover to the left and up (if you look at the mouse from the back). After a short struggle :) the lid is removed.
We have already done enough to repair the broken wire. Now you can carefully pull the wire out of the groove, and, after cutting off 5-7 cm, solder it back into the connector. However, the process of disassembling the mouse into its components has not yet been completed, so those wishing to carry out a more in-depth modification of the device can continue.
Next step: remove the scroller. To do this, take the wheel by the sides and gently pull it up, freeing the right side from the hinge. Then we move it to the right and remove it from the mount.
As a result, we get this picture:
To remove the wheel mounting block, you must complete the following two steps. First, we pull the stand in the direction of the arrow and lift this side of the block to prevent the latch from operating (step 1 in the figure). Then use a screwdriver to pull the latch (2) in the same direction and finally separate the block from the mouse. The scroller mounting system is located on it. The latter can be easily removed from the board by pulling the ears (in which the axle is attached) to the sides and pushing the board out of engagement. After completing this operation, we receive the freed fee.
Now you can start adjusting the tactile feedback when rotating the scroller. The fact that the wheel rotates discretely is ensured, firstly, by the ribbed cylindrical surface on its axis, and secondly, by a small protrusion on the frame spring-loaded from below (shown as number 1 in the figure). In order to better feel each step when rotating the wheel, you should make this protrusion a little higher. One way to achieve this is to heat a model knife in a candle flame and form a protrusion of the desired shape and size. For smoother rotation, you need to do the opposite: make this protrusion a little lower. This is easily achieved by melting it with the same heated knife.
You can also get rid of vertical play when pressing the wheel. To do this, you need to take a soldering iron and, after heating the contacts of the microswitch responsible for pressing (in the figure, number 2), slightly lift it. In this case, the wheel axle will be supported from below by a microswitch, which will eliminate the backlash. It is worth noting that if the mikrik is raised too much, the wheel begins to rotate with great difficulty. Therefore, before final assembly of the mouse, it is recommended to check whether the sensations correspond to the desired ones.
That's all - if the mouse does not require global cleaning from beer spilled on/under/in it, and you are not overcome by the desire to play Lego :) then you can begin the assembly process. Otherwise, we continue to disassemble the mouse until the bitter end.
Now you need to remove the side buttons:
It's better to start small. By carefully pulling it up, we release one side of the axis from the hinge (1 in the figure), and by pulling forward along the mouse, we pull out the button. The large button is removed in the same way: by pulling it up, we release one side (2 in the figure), after which (by slightly pulling the mounting post just freed from the axes of the buttons forward along the mouse) we pull the button up and forward, finally separating it from the mouse .
Now it's time to remove the main circuit board. It is secured with three latches. First, carefully pull back the first of them, located near the front edge, then move on to the remaining two (they are located behind the backlight block; both are marked with circles in the figure):
After releasing the latches, carefully remove the board from the case by prying it by the front edge.
Now we can look at the board itself:
In the photo, the circles mark the LEDs for working lighting and decorative lighting for the loin of our rodent :)
No less interesting is the base of the mouse with a focusing system:
The lens for focusing the light reflected from the substrate is marked here. A focused beam of light hits a photodetector mounted in the same unit with a DSP that ensures the operation of the mouse's optical sensor. The lens is made on a glass plate. The latter in working condition is pressed to the base printed circuit board, and now can be easily removed for the purpose of washing and more thorough examination :)
That's it, now you can start cleaning if necessary. It is worth noting that under no circumstances should you use abrasives or solvents for this purpose. The best option There will be rinsing with running water followed by drying of all parts.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. I would like to draw your attention to the final installation of the cover. The latch mentioned at the beginning never clicks into place right away, so once you have the lid in place, just gently push it down.
After tightening the mounting screws, the mouse is ready to return to service :) If all operations were carried out carefully, then everything should work immediately. If this does not happen, and the patient does not come out of the coma, then (only after disconnecting the mouse from the computer) you can remove the cover and check the wire connector - poor contact is often the cause of unstable operation of the mouse.