It is impossible to imagine a normal life without electricity today. However, the constant increase in prices for such a benefit of civilization dictates its own conditions, forcing people to look for light sources with lower consumption. For this reason, incandescent lamps gradually began to be replaced by fluorescent and CFL lamps. And now they are completely installed lighting on LEDs. But then the question arises, what to do with old LD lamps? Today we will consider a circuit instead of a fluorescent one.
Reasons and reasons for replacing emitters
Despite the fact that fluorescent lamps are quite economical, they have a very big drawback. The tube flask is filled with gas, which contains vapors of heavy metals, including mercury. This means that they require disposal according to certain rules. Special services do this kind of work, but their work costs money. Such lighting devices cannot be disposed of as household waste.
If you plan to replace the lighting in an apartment or private house, where there are few lamps for fluorescent lamps, home craftsmen do not hesitate to throw them away, buying new ones with LEDs. But such actions are an unacceptable waste. Having carefully understood the issue, you can modernize old lamps with your own hands without much effort and time. At the same time, the rework will not cost a penny.
instead of fluorescent
It is quite simple to transform one type of lamp into another; such work does not require any special skills or abilities. If the room has CFLs (compact fluorescent lamps) with a regular base, then no action is required at all. It is enough to simply change one light source to another. This is the simplest option. If conventional tubular lamps are installed, a slight modernization of the lamps will be required. Each point will take a home craftsman with no experience in such actions no more than 15 minutes. Let's figure out step by step what actions need to be taken.
Tools needed for the job
To replace fluorescent lamps with LED lamps you will need:
- pliers;
- screwdrivers (simple, figured, indicator);
- stripping knife.
Preparatory work consists only of purchasing the required number of LED tubes of suitable length. The manufacturer today offers many standard sizes of such lamps, so choosing the right ones will not be difficult. Having prepared everything you need, you can start working.
Algorithm of actions: step-by-step instructions
Replacing fluorescent lamps with LED lamps begins with complete stress relief. Don't think that all you have to do is press a switch. It is unknown if it is installed correctly. If a neutral wire is connected through it into the gap, the consequences will be disastrous - electric shock is dangerous to human life. To reliably turn off the power, you should use an input circuit breaker.
The next step is to check the absence of voltage on the contacts using an indicator screwdriver - insurance will not hurt. The tubular lamps are removed, and the lamp itself is dismantled.
Helpful information! After upgrading 3-4 devices, with experience, all work can be done without removing the device from the ceiling or wall, but at first it is more convenient to work below.
All equipment located in the luminaire (electronic ballasts, ballasts, starters) is dismantled. Only the “cartridges” (seats) should remain in their places. Connection diagram for an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent lamp:
- On each cartridge we connect both contacts with jumpers.
- From the first contact of the terminal block we stretch the wire to one of the sides, from the second - to the other.
It is important to understand that the LED tube has two pins only for convenience and similarity to a fluorescent lamp. Inside the case, each pair is connected. Power is supplied from opposite sides - phase on one, zero on the other.
After the upgrade has been completed, LED tubes are installed and voltage is applied to check functionality. After making sure that the assembled circuit is correct, you can install the device in its original place.
For those who want to understand in more detail the wiring diagram for an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent lamp, the following video is offered.
By completing such a simple job, you can save a lot of money, especially if we are talking about a small office. Indeed, in such a case, you will not have to spend money on purchasing new housings for LED tubes.
Finally
Realities modern world dictate the need for the greatest savings - maximum results with minimum costs. Such modernization is precisely such a solution. After all, if it is possible to get a new lamp without spending a penny on it, why not do it? In addition, the extra experience may be useful to a home craftsman in the future.
It is no secret that incandescent and daylight lamps are gradually giving way to LEDs, which are increasingly conquering the market. LEDs at the same power can produce 5-10 times more light than an incandescent lamp, they hardly heat up and do not emit harmful infrared rays. Technology already uses white super-bright LEDs and LED modules. The price of LED lamps and modules is of course more expensive than ordinary incandescent lamps and fluorescent lamps.Recently, in a store, I came across a lamp for $3, which was purchased and disassembled. The LED lamp was powered by a mains voltage of 220 volts; the required reduced output voltage was provided by a compact built-in power supply.
The power supply is switching, the output is 12 volts DC. Inside there are 3 ultra-bright LEDs with a power of 1 watt each. The LEDs are connected in series. The disadvantage is that the lamp was equipped with optics that focus the light into a point stream. To eliminate this, the board with LEDs was removed along with the power supply.
Afterwards, the module with LEDs was mounted on a heat sink, which was removed from the computer power supply. A heat sink is necessary here, since the LEDs overheat, and the heat must be removed effectively. It is advisable that there be thermal paste between the board with LEDs and the heatsink for better heat transfer.
The light produced by such a converted lamp is bright white, the module consumption is 3 watts, as promised by the manufacturer. Improved cooling made it possible to slightly increase the supply current - which further increased the brightness. Then a homemade LED lamp with a radiator was mounted on the wall. Thanks to the large heat sink, overheating is not observed at all. The photographs show the lighting of the lamp.
Visually, the module gives off as much light as a 40-watt incandescent lamp, and overall I’m pleased with the result.
In the future, there is an intention to completely switch to LED lighting in the apartment and in the garden. Author - AKA.
Discuss the article RECONDITIONING AN LED LAMP
Despite the high cost, the energy consumption of semiconductor lamps (LED) is much less than that of incandescent lamps, and their service life is 5 times longer. The LED lamp circuit operates with a supply of 220 volts, when the input signal causing the glow is converted to an operating value using a driver.
LED lamps 220 V
Whatever the supply voltage, a constant voltage of 1.8-4 V is supplied to one LED.
Types of LEDs
An LED is a semiconductor crystal made of several layers that converts electricity into visible light. When its composition changes, radiation of a certain color is obtained. The LED is made on the basis of a chip - a crystal with a platform for connecting power conductors.
To reproduce white light, the “blue” chip is coated with a yellow phosphor. When the crystal emits radiation, the phosphor emits its own. Mixing yellow and blue light creates white.
Different chip assembly methods allow you to create 4 main types of LEDs:
- DIP - consists of a crystal with a lens located on top and two conductors attached. It is the most common and is used for lighting, lighting decorations and displays.
- “Piranha” is a similar design, but with four terminals, which makes it more reliable for installation and improves heat dissipation. Mostly used in the automotive industry.
- SMD LED - placed on the surface, due to which it is possible to reduce dimensions, improve heat dissipation and provide many design options. Can be used in any light sources.
- COB technology, where the chip is soldered into the board. Due to this, the contact is better protected from oxidation and overheating, and the glow intensity is significantly increased. If an LED burns out, it must be completely replaced, since DIY repairs by replacing individual chips are not possible.
The disadvantage of the LED is its small size. To create a large, colorful light image, many sources are required, combined into groups. In addition, the crystal ages over time, and the brightness of the lamps gradually decreases. For high-quality models, the wear process is very slow.
LED lamp device
The lamp contains:
- frame;
- base;
- diffuser;
- radiator;
- LED block;
- transformerless driver.
220 volt LED lamp device
The figure shows a modern LED lamp using SOV technology. The LED is made as one unit, with many crystals. It does not require wiring of numerous contacts. It is enough to connect just one pair. When a lamp with a burnt-out LED is repaired, the entire lamp is replaced.
The shape of the lamps is round, cylindrical and others. Connection to the power supply is made through threaded or pin sockets.
For general lighting, luminaires with color temperatures of 2700K, 3500K and 5000K are selected. The spectrum gradations can be any. They are often used for advertising lighting and for decorative purposes.
The simplest driver circuit for powering a lamp from the mains is shown in the figure below. The number of parts here is minimal, due to the presence of one or two quenching resistors R1, R2 and the back-to-back connection of LEDs HL1, HL2. This way they protect each other from reverse voltage. In this case, the flickering frequency of the lamp increases to 100 Hz.
The simplest diagram for connecting an LED lamp to a 220 volt network
The supply voltage of 220 volts is supplied through the limiting capacitor C1 to the rectifier bridge, and then to the lamp. One of the LEDs can be replaced with a regular rectifier, but the flickering will change to 25 Hz, which will have a bad effect on vision.
The figure below shows a classic LED lamp power supply circuit. It is used in many models and can be removed for DIY repairs.
Classic scheme for connecting an LED lamp to a 220 V network
The electrolytic capacitor smooths out the rectified voltage, which eliminates flicker at a frequency of 100 Hz. Resistor R1 discharges the capacitor when the power is turned off.
DIY repair
A simple LED lamp with individual LEDs can be repaired by replacing faulty elements. It can be easily disassembled if you carefully separate the base from the glass body. There are LEDs inside. The MR 16 lamp has 27 of them. To access printed circuit board, on which they are located, must be deleted protective glass, prying it off with a screwdriver. Sometimes this operation is quite difficult to do.
LED lamp 220 volts
Burnt-out LEDs are immediately replaced. The rest should be ringed with a tester or a voltage of 1.5 V should be applied to each. The serviceable ones should light up, and the rest must be replaced.
The manufacturer calculates the lamps so that the operating current of the LEDs is as high as possible. This significantly reduces their service life, but it is not profitable to sell “eternal” devices. Therefore, a limiting resistor can be connected in series to the LEDs.
If the lights blink, the cause may be a failure of capacitor C1. It should be replaced with another one with a rated voltage of 400 V.
Make it yourself
LED lamps are rarely made again. It is easier to make a lamp from a faulty one. In fact, it turns out that repair and production of a new product is one process. To do this, the LED lamp is disassembled and the burnt-out LEDs and driver radio components are restored. There are often original lamps on sale with non-standard lamps, which are difficult to find replacements in the future. A simple driver can be taken from a faulty lamp, and LEDs from an old flashlight.
The driver circuit is assembled according to the classic model discussed above. Only resistor R3 is added to it to discharge capacitor C2 when turned off and a pair of zener diodes VD2, VD3 to bypass it in case of an open circuit of the LEDs. You can get by with one zener diode if you choose the right stabilization voltage. If you select a capacitor for voltages greater than 220 V, you can do without additional parts. But in this case, its dimensions will increase and after the repair is done, the board with the parts may not fit into the base.
LED lamp driver
The driver circuit is shown for a lamp of 20 LEDs. If their number is different, it is necessary to select a capacitance value for capacitor C1 such that a current of 20 mA passes through them.
The power supply circuit for an LED lamp is most often transformerless, and care should be taken when installing it yourself on a metal lamp so that there is no phase or zero short circuit to the housing.
Capacitors are selected according to the table, depending on the number of LEDs. They can be mounted on an aluminum plate in the amount of 20-30 pieces. To do this, holes are drilled in it, and LEDs are installed on hot-melt adhesive. They are soldered sequentially. All parts can be placed on a printed circuit board made of fiberglass. They are located on the side where there are no printed tracks, with the exception of LEDs. The latter are attached by soldering the pins on the board. Their length is about 5 mm. The device is then assembled in the luminaire.
LED table lamp
220 V lamp. Video
You can learn about making a 220 V LED lamp with your own hands from this video.
A properly made homemade LED lamp circuit will allow you to operate it for many years. It may be possible to repair it. Power sources can be any: from a regular battery to a 220-volt network.
For many years now we have been using conventional incandescent lamps to illuminate our homes, apartments, offices or industrial plants. However, every day electricity prices are growing rapidly, which forces us to give preference to more energy-efficient devices with high efficiency, long term services and capable of creating the necessary luminous flux with minimal costs. These devices include 220-volt LED lamps, the advantages of which we will try to fully reveal in this article.
Attention! This publication provides examples of circuits powered by a life-threatening voltage of 220V. Only persons with the necessary education and permits are allowed to assemble and test such circuits!
The simplest scheme
A 220 V LED lamp is one of the types of lighting lamps in which the luminous flux is created by converting electrical energy into luminous flux using an LED crystal. To operate LEDs from a stationary 220 V household network, you need to assemble the most the simplest scheme shown in the figure below.
The circuit of a 220-volt LED lamp consists of an alternating voltage source of 220–240 V, a rectifier bridge for converting alternating current into direct current, a limiting capacitor C1, a capacitor for smoothing ripples C2 and LEDs connected in series from 1 to 80 pieces.
Principle of operation
When an alternating voltage of 220 V of variable frequency (50 Hz) is supplied to the LED lamp driver, it passes through the current-limiting capacitor C1 to a rectifier bridge assembled from 4 diodes.
After this, at the output of the bridge we receive a constant rectified voltage required for the operation of the LEDs. However, to obtain a continuous light output, it is necessary to add an electrolytic capacitor C2 to the driver to smooth out the ripples that occur when rectifying the alternating voltage.
Looking at the design of a 220-volt LED lamp, we see that there are resistances R1 and R2. Resistor R2 is used to discharge the capacitor to protect against breakdown when the power is turned off, and R1 is used to limit the current supplied to the light diode bridge when turned on.
Circuit with additional protection
Also in some circuits there is an additional resistance R3 located in series with the LEDs. It serves to protect against current surges in LED circuits. The R3-C2 chain represents a classic low-pass filter (LP).
Circuit with active current limiter
In this version of the circuit, the current-limiting element is resistance R1. Such a circuit will have a power factor or cos φ close to unity, unlike previous options with a current-limiting capacitor, which are a reactive load. The disadvantage of this option is the need to dissipate a significant amount of heat on resistor R1.
To discharge the residual voltage of capacitor C1 to zero, resistor R2 is used in the circuit.
Installation of LED lamps for 220V AC circuits
LED light bulbs consist of the following components:
- Base (E27, E14, E40 and so on) for screwing into the socket of a lamp, sconce or chandelier;
- Dielectric gasket between the base and the housing;
- A driver on which a circuit is assembled to convert alternating voltage into a constant voltage of the required value;
- A radiator that serves to remove heat from the LEDs;
- A printed circuit board onto which LEDs are soldered (sizes SMD5050, SMD3528, and so on);
- Resistors (chips) to protect LEDs from pulsating current;
- Light diffuser to create a uniform light flux.
How to connect 220 volt LED lamps
The biggest trick when connecting 220 V LED lamps is that there is no trick. The connection is exactly the same as you did with incandescent lamps or compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). To do this: turn off the power to the base, and then screw the lamp into it. When installing, never touch the metal parts of the lamp: remember that sometimes careless electricians can pass zero through the switch instead of a phase. In this case, phase voltage will never be removed from the base.
Manufacturers have released LED analogues of all previously produced types of lamps with a variety of sockets: E27, E14, GU5.3 and so on. The installation principle for them remains the same.
If you bought an LED light bulb designed for 12 or 24 Volts, then you cannot do without a power supply. The light sources are connected in parallel: all the “pluses” of the light bulbs together to the positive output of the power supply, and all the “minuses” together to the “minus” of the power supply.
IN in this case, it is important to observe the polarity (“plus” - to “plus”, “minus” - to “minus”), since the LEDs will only emit light if the polarity is correct! Some products may fail if polarity is reversed.
Attention! Do not confuse a DC power supply (power supply) with a transformer. The transformer gives an output AC voltage, while the power source is constant voltage.
For example, you have furniture lighting in the kitchen, wardrobe or other place, made up of 4 halogen lamps with a power of 40 W and a voltage of 12 V, powered from a transformer. You decide to replace these lamps with 4 LED lamps of 4–5 W each.
Attention! In this case, it is necessary to replace the previously used transformer with a 12 V DC source with a power of at least 16–20 W.
Sometimes such LED lamps for spotlights are in most cases equipped with a power supply at the factory. When purchasing such lamps, you should also consider purchasing a power source.
How to make a simple LED light bulb
In order to assemble an LED lamp, we need an old fluorescent lamp, or rather its base with a base, a long piece of 12 V LED strip,
and an empty aluminum 330 ml can
To power such a lamp, you will need a 12 V DC source of such a size that it can fit inside the can without any problems.
So, now the production itself:
- Wrap the ribbon around the jar as shown in the picture.
- Solder the wires from the LED strip to the output of the power supply (PS).
- Solder the IP input with wires to the base of the lamp base.
- Securely secure the source itself inside the jar, having previously cut a hole large enough to allow the power source to pass inside.
- Glue the can with tape to the base of the body with the base and the lamp is ready.
Of course, such a lamp is not a masterpiece of design art, but it is made with your own hands!
The main malfunctions of 220 volt LED lamps
Based on many years of experience, if a 220 V LED lamp does not light, then the reasons may be as follows:
1. Failure of LEDs
Since in an LED lamp all the LEDs are connected in series, if at least one of them goes out, the entire lamp stops lighting due to an open circuit. In most cases, LEDs in 220 lamps are used in 2 sizes: SMD5050 and SMD3528.
To eliminate this reason, you need to find the failed LED and replace it with another one, or install a jumper (it is better not to abuse jumpers - as they can increase the current through the LEDs in some circuits). When solving the problem using the second method, the luminous flux will decrease slightly, but the light bulb will begin to shine again.
To find a damaged LED, we need a low current power supply (20 mA) or a multimeter.
To do this, we apply “+” to the anode and “–” to the cathode. If the LED does not light up, it means it is faulty. Thus, you need to check each of the lamp LEDs. Also, a failed LED can be identified visually; it looks something like this:
The cause of this failure in most cases is the lack of any protection for the LED.
2. Failure of the diode bridge
In most cases, with such a malfunction, the main reason is a manufacturing defect. And in this case, the LEDs often “fly out”. To solve this problem, you need to replace the diode bridge (or bridge diodes) and check all the LEDs.
To check the diode bridge you need a multimeter. It is necessary to apply an alternating voltage of 220 V to the bridge input and check the voltage at the output. If it remains variable at the output, then the diode bridge has failed.
If the diode bridge is assembled on separate diodes, they can be unsoldered one by one and checked with a device. A diode must pass current in only one direction. If it does not pass current at all or does pass it when a positive half-wave is applied to the cathode, then it is out of order and requires replacement.
3. Poor soldering of lead ends
In this case, we will need a multimeter. You need to understand the circuit of the LED lamp and then check all the points, starting with the input voltage of 220 V and ending with the LED outputs. Based on experience, this problem is inherent in cheap LED lamps and to eliminate it, it is enough to additionally solder all the parts and components with a soldering iron.
Conclusion
A 220 V LED lamp is an energy-efficient device with good technical characteristics, simple design and easy operation, which allows their use in both home and industrial environments.
It is also worth noting that with some equipment, education and experience, you can identify malfunctions of 220-volt LED lamps and eliminate them at minimal cost.
Video on the topic