Quite recently, a USB connector in a car was almost a luxury. There is no such connector in many modern cars, not to mention models released 10-15 years ago. We present to your attention a built-in 2 USB socket. This add-on is an indispensable device for your car. The first connector provides a current of 2.1A, and the second - 1.0A
The device has a neat, elegant geometry; the black color will not spoil the color harmony of your interior. The splitter is made of durable nylon and metal, the housing is completely sealed and is not afraid of dust and moisture. Additional confidence is given by the protective rubber cover that provides waterproof protection to USB connectors. The device can be mounted to almost any place convenient for you using the screw-on clamp included in the kit.
The adapter is perfect for upgrading cars, motorcycles, boats or special devices with an on-board voltage of 12-24V. The kit also includes terminals with which the device is connected to the on-board network wiring.
Characteristics:
- Maximum voltage: 10-26V
- Material: durable polymer, metal
- Dimensions: 36x44mm
- Warranty: 1 year.
Equipment:
- 1 x 2 USB connector in car waterproof
- 2 x connectors for connecting wiring.
You can buy Marine Car H-Quality Waterproof 2.1A 1A Dual 2 USB on our website, just place an order and wait for the operator to call.
This charger is notable for the fact that it is not inserted into the cigarette lighter socket, but is installed instead of it or embedded in the panel. When you buy a car charger not for $1 (like last time), you expect to get something more or less normal - I will study it in detail... 
The rubber plug covers not only the USB sockets, but also the blue LED, which is rather a plus.
Installation hole 29mm, installation depth with connection terminals 65mm
Before loading the charger, it was decided to first disassemble it in order to have an idea of installed components and don't burn it prematurely.
The charger can be disassembled without causing any major damage - the bottom is lightly glued at the back and removed with a scalpel. 
The LED unexpectedly turned out to be rectangular.
Traditionally, I drew the charging diagram. 
Assembled charging based on CX8505 (Step-Down 30V 3A 350kHz Up to 95%)
It is noteworthy that the converter is synchronous.
The operating frequency of the converter is really 350kHz 
Output ripple amplitude at 2A load is only 40mV 
Now more about the problems...
There is no built-in fuse - you will have to install an external 1.6-2A on the connection wires.
There is no protective zener diode (suppressor) at the output, i.e. if the microcircuit breaks down, the full on-board voltage will go to USB
If there are no filters, interference may occur. It is advisable to install a filter on the input power.
HUAHONG CD110 input capacitor 100uF 50V (measured 90uF 0.6ohm) operates with overcurrent.
In accordance with the specification, an effective operating current of only 210 mA is allowed for it, but in reality, with a load of 2A, an effective current of over 1A flows through it, while it naturally gets very hot.
The manufacturer should have installed a normal LowESR capacitor 330uF 35V there.
The 85 µH inductor is wound on a core D10.2/5.08/3.96 (-26) with 0.6 mm wire 46 turns, which on such high frequencies works inefficiently, so the manufacturer had to greatly increase the inductance to reduce core heating. It would be optimal to use a ring made of high-frequency material (for example -52).
For some reason, the capacitances of capacitors C1 and C2 are swapped (compared to the official specification).
Examination
No-load current at input 7mA
Open circuit voltage at output 5.23V (according to USB tester 5.17V)
Checking the heating when open at an ambient temperature of 22°C
- Current 2A, inductor 71°C, capacitor 62°C, microcircuit 65°C (actually even higher, because the case is small).
When closed, the heating of the elements will increase significantly, but it should work normally.
- Current 2.5A, inductor 89°C, capacitor 75°C, microcircuit 80°C
If closed, the elements will overheat and charging will not withstand such work for a long time.
- Current 3A, temperatures exceeded a hundred and testing was stopped.
- Current 3.5A very short term without temperature measurement
- It doesn’t draw even more current - at 3.6A the current limiting is triggered and the voltage immediately drops.
- Output short-circuit current - 5.2A (short-term) 
Checking the heating of the case when closed at an ambient temperature of 22°C
- Current 2.1A maximum case temperature 48°C
- Current 2.5A maximum case temperature 59°C
Measurement of efficiency, voltages were recorded directly at the contacts of the charger 
An attempt to increase the efficiency of the converter to the stated 95% by replacing the inductor and input capacitor was unsuccessful - the efficiency increased noticeably only at currents above 2A, which does not make sense when charging at 2.1A.
As a result, I only replaced the input capacitor with a 470uF 25V one (to reduce its heating), installed a 1.5KE6.8 suppressor at the output and secured the parts with sealant. 
Now more about connection
One of the assistants 
The kit includes terminals for a 2.5 kV mm wire (blue). This is too thick a wire for such charging - 0.75 sq mm is enough with a large margin 
You can’t just take this wire and clamp it into the terminals, because... they just won't last.
But there is one trick - use additional pin lugs of the required size (in in this case 0,75)
The wire was crimped with them first 
Then I clamped them into terminals 
To indicate polarity, I additionally put red heat shrink on the positive wire 
And secured the isolation 
Put on a ferrite interference filter 
Assembled 
Or so 
To prevent the ferrite from hitting the panels, I wrapped it with soft tape for bundling 
At the other end I added a fuse holder 
Now you can install it in a car instead of the cigarette lighter socket or cut a new installation hole.
I did this to myself...
Chose a location for installation 
Removed the protective cover of the gear knob 
Marked the location using the removed nut and marker 
Drilled along the contour 
I trimmed it with a semicircular file, cleaned out the sawdust with a vacuum cleaner, and cut off the interfering plastic from the inside with a knife (not yet cut in the photo) 
Installed and tightened the nut 
Connected parallel to the standard cigarette lighter socket
I usually solder connections, but here the currents are small and banal twisting works fine 
Orthodox blue electrical tape refused to stick in the cold, so I had to use bourgeois tape 
And lit it 
IN in the right places secured with zip ties 
Ready 
It took 2 hours
If something is not clear, ask.
Advantages: appearance and workmanship, good efficiency, honest 2.1A.
The disadvantages are described in the article.
There is a wide range of car USB connectors on sale that connect to the car's cigarette lighter. But this is not always convenient, and besides, with such a large number USB devices, so closely integrated into our lives, it would be quite nice to have a stationary connector in the car that does not take up space in the cigarette lighter socket. One of the ways to do this will be discussed in this article.
Materials and tools required:
- Standard USB connector with 12 volt power supply;
- A piece of plastic;
- Carbon film;
- Metal clamps and tie;
- Soldering iron with solder;
- Knife;
- Screwdriver;
- Sandpaper.
Step 1. Disassemble the connector.
Of the standard connector, we only need the electronic part; the housing is not needed. Therefore, we safely disassemble it and take out the board.
Step 2. Front panel.
Since the socket will be built into the dashboard, there is no need to make the entire housing for the electronic part; you can limit yourself to only its front side. We cut out a piece of plastic to the size we need, and inside it we cut a rectangular hole for the connector itself. If present led indicator, then we make a hole for it. We go through the edges of the plastic with sandpaper.
For improvement appearance You can stick a piece of carbon film on top.
Step 3. Assembly.
Using a metal tie, the board with the connector is attached to the inside of the plastic socket. It is desirable that the connector fits into the socket with a minimum gap.
Metal clips are attached to the back of the plastic panel:
The socket is installed in its designated place and secured with clamps:
And the device is ready for use:
Until recently, a USB connector in a car was considered almost a luxury. There is no such connector in many modern models, not to mention cars produced 10-15 years ago. In this article I will tell you how to get 5 V for a USB connector from a 12 volt on-board network.
Many people install it in their car various devices powered from a cigarette lighter – DVR, GPS navigator, and you also need to periodically connect the phone charger. And because There is only one cigarette lighter socket, buy a splitter, but this is not a solution, wires stretching across the dashboard not only distract and interfere, but can cause an accident.
As a rule, all these devices are designed for a voltage of 5 V (standard USB interface voltage), and a converter from 12 to 5 volts is contained in the plug of each of these devices. I suggest installing one 5 V power supply into the car and from it via USB, mini USB connectors power all necessary devices.
Updated 07/30/2015.
The information from the article is still relevant today, but it appeared alternative solution– ready USB adapters with connection to a 12 V network. We are not talking about cigarette lighter adapters; they were on the market at the time of the first publication, but about independent converter devices.
The device consists of two modules. The housing with external thread is designed in the form of a cigarette lighter socket and a USB adapter with two connectors is inserted into it. The manufacturer claims the following characteristics:
- Output voltage: 5V;
- Output current: 3 A.
Buy on AliExpress
Unlike the previous option this device has a one-piece design and backlight with a choice of colors: red, green, blue, orange, white.
Stated characteristics:
- Input voltage: 12 – 32 V;
- Output voltage: 5V;
- Output current: 1A; 2.1 A.
Buy on AliExpress
The adapter has a removable flange with holes for screws, which does not add to its aesthetics, but it can be installed without a flange. Please note that USB connectors have different output currents. Characteristics:
- Input voltage: 12 – 24 V;
- Output voltage: 5V;
- Output current: 1A; 2.1 A.
Buy on AliExpress
Structurally, the adapter differs from its round counterparts, thereby complicating installation. But it looks nice on the outside and should fit well into the interior of the car. Technical specifications:
- Input voltage: 12 – 24 V;
- Output voltage: 5V;
- Output current: 3.1 A.
Buy on AliExpress
These are the USB adapters currently available. They are easy to install. You can connect it to the power supply circuit of the cigarette lighter and, please, we have a full-fledged USB connector in the car. But there is a small nuance - these adapters do not have a separate (cable) 5 V output. This is important for constantly installed devices, for example, a DVR. Thus, the old part of the article has not yet lost its relevance. Let's read!
Modellers use UBEC to power aircraft, car, and ship models. What it is?
UBECUniversal battery elimination circuit- This is a pulsed on-board power supply device, the output of which is 5 or 6 V.
The choice fell on TURNIGY 3A UBEC with noise suppression. I bought it on HobbyKing. Also available on Parkflyer.
The TURNIGY 3A UBEC converter has thermal protection. The shielded housing serves to suppress interference. It has a high efficiency of 92%, the minimum difference between the input and output voltages is only 1.22 V.
The heart of this converter is the MP1593DN chip; the datasheet can be downloaded at the end of the article.
Technical characteristics of the TURNIGY 3A UBEC converter:
- Input voltage: 5.5 – 23 V;
- Output voltage: 5V or 6V, set by switch;
- Output current: 3A;
- Dimensions (LxWxH): 51x16.6x8.5 mm;
- Weight: 11.5 g.
This is how I received it (I already opened the package and couldn’t resist):
The kit includes instructions and, in fact, the UBEC itself. For comparison, I put a USB flash drive next to it:
The jumper has already been set to 5 V, there is a marking on the board on how to switch the output voltage to 5 or 6 V. Let me remind you that we need 5V! The next two photos show this marking. And also what is hidden under the screen. Thanks to Kirill Rodionov from Parkflyer for these photos, I didn’t have to disassemble my converter.
For additional protection, if the converter suddenly fails, so that there is no 12 V at the output, I installed a 1N4734 zener diode (datasheet at the end of the article): stabilization voltage 5.6 V; dissipation power 1 W, stabilization current 45 mA. This is the set I bought on ebay:
The zener diode is connected to the circuit parallel to the output, with the cathode to the plus “+”. The cathode on the zener diode is marked with a black stripe:
We solder the zener diode, the red “+” wire, to it with a strip. Additionally, I soldered short conductors with a cross section of 0.5 mm 2, which will then make it easier to wire the circuit. Preliminarily put on pieces of heat-shrinkable tube:
After shrinking individual pieces and a common tube placed on a zener diode with a hairdryer:
Since I need power for the DVR and for charger phone, then two connectors are needed - a mini USB plug and a USB socket.
I found a wonderful adapter on ebay - USB A Female to Mini USB B 5Pin Male left angle adapter. On one side it has a corner mini USB connector, and on the other there is a USB socket:
With tears in his eyes, he cut it in half:
Due to lighting, the photos were taken on different tables.
The red wire is positive “+” and the black wire is negative “-”. Just in case, I checked according to the connector pinout:
I took the wire taking into account laying it behind the decorative elements of the interior. For the mini USB connector, the wire length is longer, because The DVR is installed at the top of the windshield. For standard USB wire In short, I’ll put it somewhere on the dashboard, I haven’t decided yet.
I connected the wires and labeled them so as not to get confused. Similarly, I put a heat-shrink tube on each conductor and on top of one common one:
We got these two cables:
I soldered and assembled everything together, observing the polarity. This is what the final version of the installation kit looks like:
All that remains is to install this design in the car, lay the wires and bring out the USB connectors in the right places. It is necessary to connect through a fuse; you can use one of the standard ones from the non-responsible circuit.
Many DVRs have a function automatic switching on and shutdown when power is supplied or lost. It is very comfortable. Therefore, if you connect the converter to the cigarette lighter circuit, then this function will work because The power supply to the cigarette lighter depends on the position of the key in the ignition switch. But in this case, for example, charging your phone from a new USB connector in the car will not be very convenient; you need the ignition key to be in the lock.
If this problem is not relevant for you, connect UBEC to the cigarette lighter circuit. Otherwise, connect to a circuit independent of the ignition switch, and to maintain the function of turning on/off the DVR, use an additional relay:
The diagram shows an automotive relay in general case, but it can be without a quenching diode and without a normally closed contact 87a.
Summarize. The TURNIGY 3A UBEC voltage converter is ideal for organizing USB connectors in the car. It is made with high quality, meets the stated characteristics at an affordable price.
This converter provides 3 A output, which theoretically allows you to connect up to six devices to it. According to the specification on USB interface, the maximum current consumed by the device should be no more than 0.5 A, for USB 3.0 no more than 0.9 A.